This page covers all the crags (major and minor) within the Abermawr area.
Llech Dafad - a big atmospheric crag with steep routes on rock of varying quality. All grades and descriptions should be treated with caution, especially when pegs are mentioned.
Carreg Aber Bach - a steep crag with 2 impressive lines above a huge sea cave. Check fixed gear before ascents.
Carreg Golchfa - a few minor routes found on the promontory north of the northern most headland at Aber Bach.
Morfa Slabs - some very overgrown climbs, to the west of Abermawr. Found beneath the coast path.
Penmorfa - a few routes below the impressive Iron Age Fort (Castell Coch).
Trwyn Llwynog - 300m west of Penmorfa is some more slab climbs.
Llech Dafad approach - park at Aberbach beach, approximately 200m from end of road. Take the path to Aberbach beach and cross the beach where the coast path can be accessed leading north (stream crossing needed). After 750m, stile 123 is reached with the crag below this.
Carreg Aber Bach approach - from Aber Bach follow the coast path north for 500m. Pass some wooden posts on the right and immediately cross vegetated slopes towards a small promontory north of a large cave.
Penmorfa approach - follow the coast path to the first promontory 800m west of Abermawr and 250m west of Morfa Slabs. Routes on the northwest corner of the headland. (Penmorfa Slab, on the west side of headland).
Trwyn Llwynog approach - 300m west of Penmorfa is another headland, beyond which the coast changes orientation from west to north. On the west of the bay (Porth Mawr) are some slabs. The far west corner of the headland has some more routes. After Penmorfa the path swings right towards the next headland. For the slabs walk through vegetation from the first sharp left hand bend, or for the next venue, turn right at the next left hand bend towards the western extremity of the promontory.
-- Voluntary climbing restriction for nesting sea birds from March 1st to August 1st
-- Please do not climb here if seals present from July to December as it is pupping season.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|3||Pinnacle Groove||VS 4c|
|4||Blackout||E5 6a *|
|5||Conchoidal Fracture||E3 5c *|
|6||Been to Hell and Back||E6 6c|
|8||Sticky Fingers||E5 6a|
|9||Comfortably Numb||E3 6a *|
|10||Muffin Man||HVS 5a|
|11||Captain Beaky||HVS 5a|
|12||White Steps||VS 4c|
|14||Dream Chaser||E1 5c|
|15||Spare Rib||E1 5c|
|16||Total Exclusion Zone||E2 5b|
|17||The Fulmar||E1 5b|
|18||Goose Green||E3 5c *|
|19||Clinging to the Wreckage||E3 5c(a1)|
|20||Beastly Behaviour||E5 6a|
|21||Green Lipped Mussel||E1 5b|
|23||Yo Ho Ho||F6b s2|
|24||Anon||F5 s1 *|
|CARREG ABER BACH|
|26||Fighting Spirit||E6 6c *|
|27||Fighting Chance||E5 6a **|
|30||Seal Slab||S 4a|
|33||Slit Finger Slab Indirect||HVS 4c|
|34||Great Slab||HVS 4b|
|36||Crab's Crawl||VS 4b|
|40||Penmorfa Slab||HVS 4c|
|41||Headland Corner||HS 4b|
|TRWYN LLWYNOG SLAB|
|43||Wynog Slab||VS 4b|
|44||Noggin Arete||HS 4b|
|45||Bloody Corner||VS 4c|
|TRWYN LLWYNOG WEST|
|47||Bloody Nose||HS 4a|
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