Penbwchdy Head Pembrokeshire, WALES
Climbs 12 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 1m a.s.l – Faces NW
One of Pembroke's more serious climbing areas; generally needs low tide and calm seas. Good rock. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 330ft, notably the excellent Sargasso Wall (HVS 5a**) and Macbeth (E3 5c**).
Bird ban Feb 1-July 31.
Best approach is from the bay of Pwll Deri - take the steep hill from the W side of Goodwick, follow lane for 4mi to crossroads. Turn R, continue 1mi; 200m past a stone memorial is small parking on the R, just before Pwll Deri youth hostel. The first notable crag is Shipwreck Wall.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)
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Routes here are seriously overgrown. Climbed Sargasso Wall and it turned into an epic having to clean the route as we climbed. Shame it's overgrown, it would be a very good route.|
Jim Slater - 16/Aug/11
Took a look at this crag this weekend. Very long hack through bracken and brambles. Decided the routes looked far too overgrown and dangerous (even HS) so we ran away. I wouldn’t bother going to look unless you wanted a spectacular adventure. Ab stakes looked just about useable. No sign of ship wreck or way across the zawn but perhaps you cant see it from the top.
allen - 30/Aug/10
Went to climb Sargasso Wall (10/07) Route looked too green to climb and very little evidence of the shipwreck mentioned in the guidebook. Is access still possible without this? Has any one climbed here recently?
MikeA - 30/Sep/07
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