Climbs 31
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

rob s on the cave © deejmonkey

Crag features

A small outcrop of oolitic limestone to about 30ft. Fingery climbing on small pockets; often top-roped. There is a good 70ft 6a traverse, although this and much of the rock is polished. Can be windswept! [Peter Bowen]

Approach notes

Non tidal (for the last 300 million yrs). Park near The Rising Sun Hotel off the B4632 Cheltenham to Winchcombe road. Walk up the lane to the common, the rock is 1/2 mile to the S.


Parking Update!!! After years of very occasional sensitive evening parking with no trouble at the foot of Castle Rock outcrop Bishops Cleeve, the Rangers are getting officious again. Would recommend that climbers park at designated Car Parks along B4632. Ranger was very ‘animated’ but we think we were on the wrong end of an earlier altercation that evening.
terragait - 04/Jul/14
Nice area and views. You can hear the steam train now and again in the distance. The boulders are pretty cool, short lines but with some imagination you can get some good overhand training in. Will be visiting this often, shame the summers over!
megamonkeyman - 08/Oct/13
Nice little crag with very polished elements! The traverse is the most worthwhile route by far.
KitRabbette - 08/Sep/13
Whats up with the grades for this crag? The symonds yat guidebook seems to have most of them right, but on here they are several grades overgraded!! Dislocation is never E1 5c!! And corner 2 is never 6a!
james.slater - 17/Jul/12
A surprisingly nice little crag. Lovely views and situation. The routes are quite agreeable - much better than i was expecting.
Urgles - 14/Jul/10
Quite a bit of surface rock has fallen over the winter & a lot of unstable bits are just about clinging on
morticiaskeeper - 14/Mar/10
I had a good few hours there found it to be an ok place for a quick climb. I found routes took decent protection rock was a little polished though. Great belay stakes all over and not bad top outs. I was with someone who wanted to get some practice in but I'd of probably just gone for some solos if I was on my own. Great belay stakes all over. Haven't got a clue what routes we climbed as I had no guide did a few really easy ones and a couple that felt quite challenging.
Wallm0nkey - 07/Oct/09
In the last Wye Valley that included Castle Rock AKA Cleeve Hill, it mentioned that you could park underneath the crag, just off the track. This is no longer the case, the Wardens are current putting notices on car windows and are talking about prosecuting consistent offenders. Shame that their note, doesn't give advice on where you are allowed to park!
Paul at work - 14/Jul/08
Next time I go up here in the summer, I will try and brush some of the loose limestone off the top that has built up to give a more clean working area. Cheers Ben
Nice little crag, wasnt dodgey in anyway, found no real need for a helmet, loose stones at on the top which may fall while walking about setting anchors, great for lead climbing but very strenuous...many routes can be quite a challenge. I found it tough but great fun, most routes will take lots of gear.
mattjam - 22/Apr/06
if you are here for bouldering, leave the far end and go straight to the top! flat land all around for landing, not on a hill like the rest, might be windy
jamesblond0013 - 20/Feb/06
Good for top rope / number of differant routes and a number of ancor selections on top of cliff. Be aware to take about a couple of 6 - 7 m/ts of rope for the ancors. the spikes are set back a bit from the cliff edge. Enjoy
Some great drytooling on lower cliffs, about ten minutes walk past and down. These cliffs are too blocky and loose too climb on but has some great little edges to train on with axes. Obviously avoid using tools on the main cliff!
Laubie - 16/Dec/04
the flake on the hvs (left hand end) is partly missing. hope that helps
chris - 03/Jul/04
although the rock is in places polised, its not dodgy at all, only the hs at the far left hand end is bad and it's only recently this has happened, semingly from overzealous toproping. watch out for a flake half way up that could cause seriouse damage to the belayer. the only route unprotectable is the E4, all the rest, though strenuous, will take adequate gear.
stu mac - 30/Jun/04
further right from castle rock on the small end outcrops is some good quality(no polish) bouldering up to 6b so far. The end outcrop has two good traverses starting at a two finger pocket moving left on sloping holds to the nose and a rockover move to the top(6a) or going even lower using a side pull under the roof and smears at 6b. Well worth a go if in the area!
dylan burgess - 01/Jun/04
The rock is soft and loose and top-roping is really the only way to protect yourself. Top-roping will inevitabley bring down loose rock and gravel from above, wearing a helmet is more than a good idea.
Richard Fox - 25/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Short CrackHS 4b 72
2Little AreteHVS 5a 28
3The EasyHS 4b 115
4Corner 1HVS 5b 66
5DislocationE1 5b *72
6DislocatedE2 6a 43
7Eliminate 1E2 6a *19
8Piton RouteE3 5c *12
9Piton DirectE3 6a *15
10Corner DirectE4 6a ***23
11Corner 2E3 6a *13
12No NameE3 5c 3
13The OverhangE1 5b *60
14CaveE2 5c **48
15Eliminate 2E2 5c 9
16NicheE2 6a 19
17Eliminate 3E2 5c 31
18The Hand JamHS 4a *197
19In BetweenHVS 5b 78
20Middle CrackS 4a *211
21Eliminate 4VS 5a **85
22Right CrackS *249
23Black WallHVS 5b *64
24End Route
HVS 5a/b 23
25The GirdleE1 5b *9
26The Traversenone 6a **13
27Easy Right
HS 4a 19
28The AreteHS 4c 9
29The CrackVD 11
30Pea PodVD 10

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