Miéville

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 550m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The hillside west of the Rhone, in the neighbourhoud of Miéville, hosts several crags with single and multi-pitch sport routes. The crags are granite with the exception of Eole, which is just gneiss. The crags here are listed from north to south, and are covered in the Remy brothers' "Escalades" guide unless mentioned otherwise, and coverage in Plaisir West is indicated where applicable. The exact coverage in the other two guidebooks is not known by the moderator.

PILLIPI/TERRY (Plaisir West): Routes of six pitches with easy access.

ADRÉNALINE/MANGADORE: Hard multi-pitch routes.

POUR MISS (just the main multi-pitch route in Plaisir West): A multi-pitch route and some single pitch routes at the top.

LE MYTH PERDUE: A list of significant variant routes accredited to Lucien Abbet, one of the principal activists of the area.

CLOCHETONS: A collection of single pitch routes 10 minutes walk from Miéville

VERS TU OSES: Multi-pitch routes.

PISSEVACHE (Plaisir West, not Escalades): Long sustained pitches up 130m face of mainly vertical cracks, superb Granite but a small rack of friends/nuts neede to supplement the sport bolts which are quite run-out. Approached from Salvan, up on the hill,with descent to start of routes by abseil (rather than steep path) strongly recommended.

EOLE: Two super east facing pillars of 100 meters on beautiful gneiss. Good equipment, though sometimes a little bit sportif! Eole is the start of the marathon Sport route 'L'Amour'; 22 pitches from the the valley floor (4 pitches-Eole inferior, 3 pitches-Eole superior, 9 new transition pitches that finish at Marmites Glaciers des Grange. Then the second section of 6 pitches in the Vallon de Van.

Guidebooks
Schweiz Plaisir West (2012), Climbing in the Rhone Valley - An English Companion for Climbers (2010), Escalades: Jura, Vaud, Chablais, Bas-Valais, Sanetsch (2010), Les Carnets Escalade Vaud-Valais (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
53Dopamine7b  
54Adrénaline7b *** 
55Slogy7a+  
56Issue fatale7c  
57Massacre au tamponnoir7b  
58"?"8a  
59Achille Tonic6b+  
60L'importance du vide7b  
61Le choc des cultures7a+  
62Anti gag1  
63Quéquette blues7a+  
64Cardabelle6c+ *** 
65Lapin dix6a+ *** 
66La scie à tics7b  
67Schproum7a  
68Tel l'éclair7a  
69Psychose7b+  
 MANDRAGORE  
71Nido7b  
72Mandragore6c  
73La brosse folle7b  
74Mirry6c+  
75La part du lion1  
76L'Impressioniste6b  
77Dans mes nuits j'oubile7a  
78N'amasse pas mousse6a  
 POUR MISS  
80Gaypied6c+  
81Pour Miss6c+ 1
82Tete-à-queue6c+  
 LE MYTHE PERDURE  
84Lyme (LMP)6c+  
 CLOCHETONS  
86Corps à corps7a *** 
87Les doigts dans la fente6c  
 VERS TU OSES  
89Vert tu oses6b+  
90Variante7a  
91Beauté cachée7a  
92Le grand pas6a  
 PISSEVACHE  
94Merveille que dalle6a 1
95Loretta6b  
96Chez Rocky6a+  
97Bravo Lapp5a 1
98Miles dévisse6a+  
 EOLE  
100La Jackson5b  
101La directe6b **1
102La directe (multipitch)6b ** 
103Eole6b **1
104Mort ou vif6a+  
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