Miéville

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 550m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The hillside west of the Rhone, in the neighbourhoud of Miéville, hosts several crags with single and multi-pitch sport routes. The crags are granite with the exception of Eole, which is just gneiss. The crags here are listed from north to south, and are covered in the Remy brothers' "Escalades" guide unless mentioned otherwise, and coverage in Plaisir West is indicated where applicable. The exact coverage in the other two guidebooks is not known by the moderator.

PILLIPI/TERRY (Plaisir West): Routes of six pitches with easy access.

ADRÉNALINE/MANGADORE: Hard multi-pitch routes.

POUR MISS (just the main multi-pitch route in Plaisir West): A multi-pitch route and some single pitch routes at the top.

LE MYTH PERDUE: A list of significant variant routes accredited to Lucien Abbet, one of the principal activists of the area.

CLOCHETONS: A collection of single pitch routes 10 minutes walk from Miéville

VERS TU OSES: Multi-pitch routes.

PISSEVACHE (Plaisir West, not Escalades): Long sustained pitches up 130m face of mainly vertical cracks, superb Granite but a small rack of friends/nuts neede to supplement the sport bolts which are quite run-out. Approached from Salvan, up on the hill,with descent to start of routes by abseil (rather than steep path) strongly recommended.

EOLE: Two super east facing pillars of 100 meters on beautiful gneiss. Good equipment, though sometimes a little bit sportif! Eole is the start of the marathon Sport route 'L'Amour'; 22 pitches from the the valley floor (4 pitches-Eole inferior, 3 pitches-Eole superior, 9 new transition pitches that finish at Marmites Glaciers des Grange. Then the second section of 6 pitches in the Vallon de Van.

Guidebooks
Schweiz Plaisir West (2012), Climbing in the Rhone Valley - An English Companion for Climbers (2010), Escalades: Jura, Vaud, Chablais, Bas-Valais, Sanetsch (2010), Les Carnets Escalade Vaud-Valais (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
53Dopamine7b
54Adrénaline7b ***
55Slogy7a+
56Issue fatale7c
57Massacre au tamponnoir7b
58"?"8a
59Achille Tonic6b+
60L'importance du vide7b
61Le choc des cultures7a+
62Anti gag1
63Quéquette blues7a+
64Cardabelle6c+ ***
65Lapin dix6a+ ***
66La scie à tics7b
67Schproum7a
68Tel l'éclair7a
69Psychose7b+
 MANDRAGORE 
71Nido7b
72Mandragore6c
73La brosse folle7b
74Mirry6c+
75La part du lion1
76L'Impressioniste6b
77Dans mes nuits j'oubile7a
78N'amasse pas mousse6a
 POUR MISS 
80Gaypied6c+
81Pour Miss6c+
82Tete-à-queue6c+
 LE MYTHE PERDURE 
84Lyme (LMP)6c+
 CLOCHETONS 
86Corps à corps7a ***
87Les doigts dans la fente6c
 VERS TU OSES 
89Vert tu oses6b+
90Variante7a
91Beauté cachée7a
92Le grand pas6a
 PISSEVACHE 
94Merveille que dalle6a
95Loretta6b
96Chez Rocky6a+
97Bravo Lapp5a
98Miles dévisse6a+
 EOLE 
100La Jackson5b
101La directe6b **
102La directe (multipitch)6b **
103Eole6b **
104Mort ou vif6a+
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer rlrs

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/Sep/2014
ads.ukclimbing.com

User Photos

There are no photos of this crag available

Upload a photo

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)