Gollums Cave

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 75m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A solid limestone cave with fantastic views overlooking the Avon Gorge. Hard eliminate bouldering on crimps. There are many variations and eliminates to be had.

Some people have been camping here recently and have left rubbish, mattresses and sleeping bags etc. They have also been having fires in the cave, so have stained the cave with smoke and damaged some of the rock above the fire.

Access notes
Gollum's is not easy to find. The easiest access is from the junction of Percival Road and Clifton Down. Take the right turn up the tarmac footpath that gently curves round to the right as it goes uphill away from the road. Walk straight on up here for 120 m to where a dilapidated metal fence appears on the right hand side of the footpath. Here drop down the steep earth bank on the right and turn left onto an earth track. Follow this for 15 m to a concrete block. Turn right steeply downhill for 30 m and then down and left for another 25 m to a large block of limestone lying on the left of the path. You should be able to see the buttress ahead from here - follow the track left and down again for 20 m. This takes only a couple of minutes from the road.

Guidebooks
Esoteric Bouldering

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1F7a+ Circuit7a+
2Thumb Warsf8A
3Thumb Wars Extensionf8A **
4No Pain No Gainf7C+ *
5No Pain No Gain (left hand)f7C **
6Mouldy Bananasf7C+ *
7Smeagolf7C+
8Deagolf7C
9Gollum's Traversef7C
10Problem 21f7A *
11Problem 26f7A
12Problem 37f7B
13Problem 2f6B *
14Problem 5f6B *
15Problem 35f7A+
16Problem 28f7A
17Problem 8f6B
18Problem 22f7A
19Problem 27f7A
20Problem 36f7A
21Problem 39f7A+
22Problem 3f6B+
23Problem 1f5+ *
24Gollum's One Armerf7C+ ***
25Problem 16f7A
26Problem 20f7A
27Problem 23f7A
28Gollum's RoofE5
29Easy Gollum's Traversef5+ *
30Mouldy Rainf7C *
31Episode 2f7C+
32Overhanging Prowf6B+
33Top of the WorldE5 6c
34GGGGRRRR not myrrhE2 5c *
35Problem 4f6A+
36Problem 6f6A+
37Problem 9f6B
38Problem 10f6C
39Problem 11f6B+
40Problem 12f6B+
41Problem 14f6B+
42Problem 18f7A
43Gollum's Campus Problemf7C
44Problem 24f7A *
45Thumb Wars Standf7C
46Painful Bananasf8A
47Painful Bananas RH *f8A
48Mouldy Bananas SDS *f8A *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JKinsella

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Been twice in the last week or so and isn't too bad, moved the rubbish to the right hand side of cave, rock and holds seam fine. Well fine apart from graffiti, soot and grease. At least the view is still nice!
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Jul/14
Went down to Gollums cave today to find it in a total state. Some people have been camped out there and have left mattresses, rubbish, sleeping bags etc. They have had fires in the cave two, breaking many of the holds and staining the cave with smoke, so not that great to boulder at any more unfortunately.
George Frisby - 12/Mar/14
Pretty good as for a few sessions for training. Grades can be pretty stiff around the 7A-B range, though this is the best range with a very diverse set of problems. Polished to hell and back so many of the more sloping holds are much harder (some now basically impossible) to hold unfortunately. Thumb Wars wall gets wet around fairly key foot and hand placements during rainy periods. Beware the deeply unsettling in-situ protection and good god do not turn it over...
AMorris - 15/Nov/13
Must come back when I have some muscles. Somebody appears to have moved in -two tents and a cave -Luxury!
leland stamper - 22/Apr/13
somebody cleaned the place up. impressed. was planning to do that at some point since i first came here. but now somebody else did. cool! don't think the current, cleaned-up state will last long though...
pheotleyr - 10/Aug/12
pleased to finally take a look after hearing about it several times over the past few years. Great spot. Did some bouldering but no idea what I ticked.
Stanners - 10/Jan/12