Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 75m a.s.l
Faces SW

Mouldy Rain V9 © James Squire

Crag features

A solid limestone cave with fantastic views overlooking the Avon Gorge. Hard eliminate bouldering on crimps. There are many variations and eliminates to be had.

The numbered problems feature in the guide produced by the late Ian Hill. A reproduction can be found in the esoteric bouldering guidebook, now hosted on the Climbing Academy website. https://www.theclimbingacademy.com/esoteric-bouldering/bristol-region/gollums-cave/


Some people have been camping here recently and have left rubbish, mattresses and sleeping bags etc. They have also been having fires in the cave, so have stained the cave with smoke and damaged some of the rock above the fire.

Approach notes

Gollum's is not easy to find. The easiest access is from the junction of Percival Road and Clifton Down. Take the right turn up the tarmac footpath that gently curves round to the right as it goes uphill away from the road. Walk straight on up here for 120 m to where a dilapidated metal fence appears on the right hand side of the footpath. Here drop down the steep earth bank on the right and turn left onto an earth track. Follow this for 15 m to a concrete block. Turn right steeply downhill for 30 m and then down and left for another 25 m to a large block of limestone lying on the left of the path. You should be able to see the buttress ahead from here - follow the track left and down again for 20 m. This takes only a couple of minutes from the road.

Not great - rubbish and food and crap left. Saddening. Rock very sooty and graffiti. Probably better in warmer months.
KeriV - 01/Jan/15
Been twice in the last week or so and isn't too bad, moved the rubbish to the right hand side of cave, rock and holds seam fine. Well fine apart from graffiti, soot and grease. At least the view is still nice!
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Jul/14
Went down to Gollums cave today to find it in a total state. Some people have been camped out there and have left mattresses, rubbish, sleeping bags etc. They have had fires in the cave two, breaking many of the holds and staining the cave with smoke, so not that great to boulder at any more unfortunately.
George Frisby - 12/Mar/14
Pretty good as for a few sessions for training. Grades can be pretty stiff around the 7A-B range, though this is the best range with a very diverse set of problems. Polished to hell and back so many of the more sloping holds are much harder (some now basically impossible) to hold unfortunately. Thumb Wars wall gets wet around fairly key foot and hand placements during rainy periods. Beware the deeply unsettling in-situ protection and good god do not turn it over...
AMorris - 15/Nov/13
Must come back when I have some muscles. Somebody appears to have moved in -two tents and a cave -Luxury!
leland stamper - 22/Apr/13
somebody cleaned the place up. impressed. was planning to do that at some point since i first came here. but now somebody else did. cool! don't think the current, cleaned-up state will last long though...
pheotleyr - 10/Aug/12
pleased to finally take a look after hearing about it several times over the past few years. Great spot. Did some bouldering but no idea what I ticked.
Stanners - 10/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Numbered problems 
2Problem 1f5+ *14
3Problem 2f6B *24
4Problem 3f6B+ 14
5Problem 4f6A+ 6
6Problem 5f6B *14
7Problem 6f6A+ 5
8Problem 7f6B+ 3
9Problem 8f6B 3
10Problem 9f6B 3
11Problem 10f6C 5
12Problem 11f6B+ 2
13Problem 12f6B+ 3
14Problem 13f6B+  
15Problem 14f6B+ 3
16Problem 15f6B+  
17Problem 16f7A 5
18Problem 17f6C+  
19Problem 18f7A 6
20Problem 19f6C+ 3
21Problem 20f7A 5
22Problem 21f7A *6
23Problem 22f7A 1
24Problem 23f7A 3
25Problem 24f7A *2
26Problem 25f7A 2
27Problem 26f7A 3
28Problem 27f7A 3
29Problem 28f7A 3
30Problem 29f7A 2
31Problem 30f7A  
32Problem 31f7A  
33Problem 32f7A 1
34Problem 33f7A 1
35Problem 34f7A  
36Problem 35f7A+ 2
37Problem 36f7A 1
38Problem 37f7B 4
39Problem 38f7A+  
40Problem 39f7A+ 1
41Problem 40f7B  
42Problem 41f7B  
43Problem 42f7B+  
 New problems 
45Thumb Warsf8A 3
46Thumb Wars Stand
-
f7C 2
47Thumb Wars Extensionf8A **2
48Thumb Wars Variation
-
f7C+ 1
49No Pain No Gainf7C+ *5
50No Pain No Gain (left hand)f7C **6
51Gollum's Campus Problemf7C 2
52Mouldy Bananasf7C+ *3
53Mouldy Bananas SDSf8A *2
54Mouldy Rainf7C *2
55Sore Thumbf8A+ 2
56Painful Bananasf8A 2
57Painful Bananas RHf8A 2
58Gollum's One Armerf7C+ ***3
59Episode 2f7C+ 3
60Smeagol
-
f7C+ 1
61Deagol
-
f7C 1
62Overhanging Prowf6B+ 2
 Circuits 
64F7a+ Circuit7a+ 5
65Easy Gollum's Traversef5+ *11
66Gollum's Traverse
-
f7C 1
 Trad 
68Top of the WorldE5 6c 1
69Gollum's RoofE5  
70GGGGRRRR not myrrhE2 5c *4

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