Climbs 10
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1068m a.s.l
Faces all
Sunrise on Glas Maol. Graham Johnston and Patey the Dog © graeme gatherer
This crag sits at an altitude of 800m making it one of the highest in the area, facing North / North East and seeping water, ice forms quickly on the crag. Snow build up can be an issue leaving the approach gully with cornice / avalanche danger.
The quickest approach (if steepest) is from the ski centre car park, following the path up over the top of Glas Maol before descending to the top of ‘Banana Gully’ at grid NO 173 761. It is possible to walk in from Caenlochan Glen, but it is a long way!
The venue is split into two areas by ‘Banana Gully’, Little Glas Maol Buttress is to the right (facing out) while 'Craigie Doubs' buttress is to the left, this contains most of the ice routes.
Routes are often accessed by descending 'Banana Gully' at grade 1 - see the route descriptions for the best access. GPS locks have been provided on some routes, but a clear day makes for an easier first-time visit. Large avalanches have occurred down all of the approach gullies.
Alternative access to the main ice routes can be found by descending the ground to the north of Craigie Doubs at grid NO 173 763
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