Lower Cove

Climbs 108 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 429m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The extensive buttresses of Lower Cove are among the steepest and best in the Mournes, better and more continuous than they appear from a distance, with excellent routes at every grade from Severe to E8. Mostly single pitch (15-45m).

Don't miss out on the entertaining cave scramble!

Access notes
A relatively flat walk in along the Annalong Valley (1hr).

Guidebooks
Rock Climbs in the Mourne Mountains (2010), A Rock Climbing Guide to the Mournes (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FAR-LEFT BUTTRESSES  
2Half CornerVS 4b 29
3Munching MandyS 4a 14
4KrammedE1 5a 2
5KramVS 4c 29
6Kissing KerryVS 4c 12
7Reeling RosieVS 4c 3
8Not the SeaVS 4c 2
9New DecayedS 4a **68
10Left AreteE2 5c *4
 FIRST CORNER BUTTRESS  
12TyroVD *76
13North WallS 3c *52
14First CornerHS 4b **74
15Edge OnE3 6b **4
16Meat GrinderE2 5c ***20
17Salami RushdieE4 6b * 
18The Great Treacle Sponge RobberyE1 5b **16
19The Great Treacle Sponge Robbery Direct StartE3 6a * 
20Dot to DotE3 5c ** 
21OverdueE2 5c **32
22Just in TimeE4 6a  
23Dot's DelightHVS 4c ***33
24Dot's DirectE1 5a *3
25Physical GraffitiE2 6a *2
26Altered ImageE3 6a * 
27Dot's Very DirectE4 6a ** 
28Wee MarkHVS 5a 5
29Gun CrazyE2 5c  
30ChoicesE5 6a ** 
31Crystal GrindingE5 6a * 
32WatersignE2 5c **2
33Liquid CoolE2 5c *** 
34The We'anE1 5a  
35Fair Play to MooneyE2 5c * 
36MayaE3 5c * 
37The Water MarginD 1
 SECOND CORNER BUTTRESS  
39The Arkansas ChugabugE2 6a  
40GynocratHVS 5a ***43
41AutocratE3 5c ***1
42Glass OnionE4 6a ** 
43AristocratE1 5b ***27
44Purple HazeE2 5b **2
45AbdicationE3 5c  
46JoyrideE5 6a ** 
47Primitive DanceE1 5b *2
48Black WindowE3 6a * 
49Control ZoneE5 6b * 
50Graffiti LimboE4 6a *** 
51AchillesE2 5c **1
52Short, Sharp, ShockedE4 6b ** 
53Second Corner WallE1 5b *1
54ZakopaneE1 5b  
55CumulusVS 4c 7
56The Dude AbidesE1 5b * 
57The Gumbo VariationsHVS 5a *8
58Gumbo TraverseVS 4b ** 
59"Blink-"VS 5a 1
 THIRD CORNER BUTTRESS  
61Call UpHVS 5a 1
62DemobHS 4a *6
63TransistorHS 4b 2
64Agag's WallVS 4b ***66
65Pillar VariantS 4a ***104
66DemocratVS 5a *13
67Burning HopeHVS 5b *10
68Third CornerHS 4b *19
69Trog's TrotVS 4b 2
70Ways of EscapeE1 5c *5
71Cracking UpVS 4b 5
72SundownerE1 5c *6
73Dark Side of the MoonE1 5b **12
74Fox's TiersVS 5a *9
75Fox's BrushHS 4b 4
76Ridicule WallHVS 5a 1
77StokerD 2
78FairyS 3c 5
 FOURTH CORNER BUTTRESS  
80Too Late to Fly the FlagE2 5b  
81Fourth CornerD 18
82ElvisE3 6a 2
83Brewer's GloomS 4a ***44
84Brewer's DroopS 4b *5
85Brewer's CornerE1 5c 12
86PraxisE1 5b **1
87No HighwayE2 5c **5
88Swing LowE1 5b ***24
89Route 66E3 6a  
90Pressure PointE6 6c *** 
91CartilageVS 4b *10
92YukonVS 4c *8
93EurekaHVS 5a *2
94The Far CountryE2 5b *2
95The Uncouth RoofVS 4c  
 EAST FACE  
97The French ConnectionE5 6b  
98Les Jeunes Filles en Jupes d'EteE2 5b ***16
99A Winter's TaleE3 6a ***1
100Infidels Direct StartE5 6a *** 
101InfidelsE4 6a ***1
102The 5th ApeE5 6a ***3
103Prime MateE7 6c *** 
104Sleezy LoverE8 6c *** 
105Easy LoverE7 6c ***1
106Freshly BakedE7 6b *** 
107The Dark CrystalE7 6c *** 
108RokkenjagerE7 6c *** 
109SkelatorE4 6b * 
110Old Bones and EchoesE3 6a  
111Crack of DoomE2 5b * 
112Thirteen Stone WeaklingE2 5b 1
113Fat Boy SlimeE5 6a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is a great crag thats got something on offer for everyone. My favourite route is the Gumbo Variation (HVS 5a,4b,4a) which I did with my crazy french/peruvian/alcoholic friend seb. Other routes worth doing include the classic Pillar Variant and the one just to the right of it (tight squeeze for most people.)
Conor Mc Dermott - 11/Oct/04