Possibly the nicest crag in Leicestershire. Stays clean and dry even in winter and is set amongst glourious scenery.Best routes include Virago (E1 5a***, 17m), Trepidation (E1 5b*, 17m) and Starco (HVS 5a*, 14m). All routes are of good quality, however finding gear placements can be somewhat problematical.
Unofficially - it would seem climbing by small numbers of people seems to be tolerated. I was up there recently, and spoke to one of the wardens who - whilst quoting the official line of not allowing climbing, didn't ask us to leave, and seemed quite happy to leave us there climbing. [Nick Ward 6/02]
Severn Trent no longer allow access to this crag. Climbing is BANNED!
Was a very nice crag, but apparantly the measures are necessary for conservation measures. [Nick Ward 4/02]
Craig Buddon is situated at the dam end of Swithland reservoir and is visible from the weir, parking is alongside the dam itself.
Anyone visiting should be sure to descend the crag either by abseil or by walking through the woodland to the R (i.e. the reservoir side) of the crag. The slopes to the left are ecologically sensitive (Severn Trent Water is encouraging heather regeneration in the area) and should be avoided.
Out of print: Leicestershire Climbs (1993)
|3||Straight and Narrow||HVS 5a *||27|
|4||Blade||HVS 5a **||6|
|5||Go Slow||VS 4b||36|
|6||Starco||HVS 5a *||63|
|7||Gamekeepers Refusal||E1 5b||30|
|8||Soft and Hard||VS 4b *||60|
|9||Virago||E1 5a ***||80|
|11||Dusty Desire||HS 4b||70|
|12||Future Times||HVS 5a||9|
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