Craig Buddon

Climbs 24 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
Possibly the nicest crag in Leicestershire. Stays clean and dry even in winter and is set amongst glourious scenery.Best routes include Virago (E1 5a***, 17m), Trepidation (E1 5b*, 17m) and Starco (HVS 5a*, 14m). All routes are of good quality, however finding gear placements can be somewhat problematical.

Access notes
Unofficially - it would seem climbing by small numbers of people seems to be tolerated. I was up there recently, and spoke to one of the wardens who - whilst quoting the official line of not allowing climbing, didn't ask us to leave, and seemed quite happy to leave us there climbing. [Nick Ward 6/02]

Severn Trent no longer allow access to this crag. Climbing is BANNED!

Was a very nice crag, but apparantly the measures are necessary for conservation measures. [Nick Ward 4/02]

Craig Buddon is situated at the dam end of Swithland reservoir and is visible from the weir, parking is alongside the dam itself.

Anyone visiting should be sure to descend the crag either by abseil or by walking through the woodland to the R (i.e. the reservoir side) of the crag. The slopes to the left are ecologically sensitive (Severn Trent Water is encouraging heather regeneration in the area) and should be avoided.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Leicestershire Climbs (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1DandyD
2CullVD
3Straight and NarrowHVS 5a *
4BladeHVS 5a **
5Go SlowVS 4b
6StarcoHVS 5a *
7Gamekeepers RefusalE1 5b
8Soft and HardVS 4b *
9ViragoE1 5a ***
10TrepidationHVS 5b
11Dusty DesireHS 4b
12Future TimesHVS 5a
13HalcyonD
14HarpyD
15Girdle TraverseHVS 5a
16WodenVD
17The PenguinE2 5c
18The Bowline Cycling ClubVD
19Sunshine on a Rainy Day!E3 6b *
20ScabbardE4 5c ***
21Brothers In ArmsE5 6b *
22Trepidation DirectE2 5b *
23Pigeon StreetHVS 4b
24House of CardsHVS 4c
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These details were last updated on 12/Jan/2006

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