Climbs 83
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 302m a.s.l
Faces all

Hen Mountain the Mournes © auld al

Crag features

An easily accessible playground of granite tors with some very good slabby routes. A lovely place to climb, though quite exposed and windy.

Most of the climbs on Hen are single pitch, although there are some longer excursions which are no harder than HS. In places it is possible to climb the slabs almost anywhere at a similar grade, so individual routes are not listed. There are also far more problems and short routes than are officially recorded - the place rewards meandering solo.

The rock is generally clean and sound but there is often not much protection to be found (including for belays), so many of the routes tend to get soloed or top roped.

Approach notes

About 20 mins walk-in along the track which leads between Hen Mountain and Rocky Mountain. The uncool landowners strictly forbid dogs.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Tor 
2Aryan
-
S 4a 11
3Paper Friends
-
VS 4b 8
4Common RouteM 15
5Common AreteM 36
6Jim's Jaunt
-
VD *54
7The Merry Ploughboy
-
VD 56
8Uncertainty
-
D 37
9Bumblebee TunaE3 6a 3
10Crystal MazeE5 6a *2
11High Noon
-
HS 4c 46
12High Noon
-
f4 *13
13Undercut Flakef4+ *4
14Struggle GullyS 4a 11
 The Tower 
16Wet PaintHVS 5a 2
17Jump RouteVS 4c 89
18EscalatorD **114
19Escalator DirectS 4a 130
20Elevator Timf5+ 11
21Test Pilot
-
E5 6b **3
22The Drain
-
HVS 4c 24
23Asterisk
-
E2 5b **21
24Asterisk Direct Start
-
HVS 4c 2
25Asterisk Right-Hand
-
E1 5b 4
26Unforgiven
-
E4 6a * 
27Purgatory
-
E5 6b 2
28Last RitesE5 6a ** 
29Journey into Life
-
E3 5c ***4
30Quare CrackE1 5b ***31
31Destination Unknown
-
E2 5b 9
32Yeni Gol
-
HS 4a **34
33Dreams of Distance
-
E2 5c 8
34Whole of the Moon
-
E2 6a 3
35Yeni Gol (Variation A)
-
VS 4b 18
36Yeni Gol (Variation B)
-
VS 4b 16
37The Boulder
-
D 10
38Slanting Slipper
-
VS 4a 6
39Y-Crack Left
-
HS 4a 15
40Y-Crack Right
-
VS 4b *24
41Travelling Tales
-
E1 5a 6
42FingerbowlS 3c ***46
43East AreteM **56
 Summit Tor 
45Main Street
-
E1 5c *49
46Little One
-
E1 5c 8
47King of the Mountains
-
E2 6a **8
48The One They Call the White Hair
-
VS 4c 34
49Yak-Yak
-
D 29
50Simplicity
-
VD **111
51Athene
-
VS 4b *50
52Miami Dolphin
-
E2 5b *12
53Only Fools and Horses
-
E4 6a 2
54Ethical Backfire
-
E2 5b ***28
55Ethical Backfire (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5b 1
56LA Raider
-
E1 5a *17
57LA Raider (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5b 2
58Difficility
-
VS 5a *70
59Antar Mona
-
E5 6a 5
60Summer's End
-
E1 5b *30
61Ancientcy
-
VD *25
62Modernity
-
VD *41
63Touchdown
-
E1 5c 8
64Superbowl
-
HVS 5a *12
65Sudden Impact
-
HVS 5b *12
66The Man with no Name
-
VS 4c 8
67Scissorhand
-
E1 5b 2
 South East Tor 
69Long ClimbM *9
70Jumper
-
D 10
71Farce FoundS 5
72VolcanoVD *29
73Sunset
-
HS 4b **30
74Messing with the Kid
-
E2 5b *7
75Morgan
-
VD *33
76Last of the Summer WineVS 4b 24
77Keyhole Crack
-
VD *39
78Ladder
-
M 17
79Prominent Groove
-
VD 6
80Oslo
-
D 13
 Little Cock Tor 
82Just Look
-
f5 *8
83The Groundsman
-
f7A *1
84The Boys of Summer
-
E1 5c 25
85Cyanide and HappinessE2 5c **3
86The Age of Innocence
-
HVS 5b 7
87Mosquito Wham
-
f7A **1
88The Outsider
-
E2 5c 2

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