Hen Mountain

Climbs 82 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 302m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
An easily accessible playground of granite tors with some very good slabby routes. A lovely place to climb, though quite exposed and windy.

Most of the climbs on Hen are single pitch, although there are some longer excursions which are no harder than HS. In places it is possible to climb the slabs almost anywhere at a similar grade, so individual routes are not listed. There are also far more problems and short routes than are officially recorded - the place rewards meandering solo.

The rock is generally clean and sound but there is often not much protection to be found (including for belays), so many of the routes tend to get soloed or top roped.

Access notes
About 20 mins walk-in along the track which leads between Hen Mountain and Rocky Mountain. The uncool landowners strictly forbid dogs.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbs in the Mourne Mountains (2010), A Rock Climbing Guide to the Mournes (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WEST TOR  
2AryanS 4a 10
3Paper FriendsVS 4b 7
4Common RouteM 14
5Common AreteM 31
6Jim's JauntVD *49
7The Merry PloughboyVD 50
8UncertaintyD 33
9Bumblebee TunaE3 6a 2
10High NoonHS 4c 42
11High Noonf4 *13
12Undercut Flakef4+ *4
13Struggle GullyS 4a 11
 THE TOWER  
15Wet PaintHVS 5a 1
16Jump RouteVS 4c 76
17EscalatorD **102
18Escalator DirectS 4a 117
19Elevator Timf5+ 9
20Test PilotE5 6b **2
21The DrainHVS 4c 22
22AsteriskE2 5b **15
23Asterisk Direct StartHVS 4c 2
24Asterisk Right-HandE1 5b 3
25UnforgivenE4 6a * 
26PurgatoryE5 6b 2
27Last RitesE5 6a ** 
28Journey into LifeE3 5c ***4
29Quare CrackE1 5b ***25
30Destination UnknownE2 5b 6
31Yeni GolHS 4a **31
32Dreams of DistanceE2 5c 8
33Whole of the MoonE2 6a 3
34Yeni Gol (Variation A)VS 4b 16
35Yeni Gol (Variation B)VS 4b 14
36The BoulderD 9
37Slanting SlipperVS 4a 5
38Y-Crack LeftHS 4a 12
39Y-Crack RightVS 4b *24
40Travelling TalesE1 5a 6
41FingerbowlS 3c ***40
42East AreteM **41
 SUMMIT TOR  
44Main StreetE1 5c *43
45Little OneE1 5c 6
46King of the MountainsE2 6a **6
47The One They Call the White HairVS 4c 29
48Yak-YakD 29
49SimplicityVD **96
50AtheneVS 4b *42
51Miami DolphinE2 5b *9
52Only Fools and HorsesE4 6a  
53Ethical BackfireE2 5b ***16
54Ethical Backfire (Direct Finish)E2 5b 1
55LA RaiderE1 5a *11
56LA Raider (Direct Finish)E2 5b 2
57DifficilityVS 5a *60
58Antar MonaE5 6a 1
59Summer's EndE1 5b *27
60AncientcyVD *23
61ModernityVD *39
62TouchdownE1 5c 7
63SuperbowlHVS 5a *10
64Sudden ImpactHVS 5b *11
65The Man with no NameVS 4c 6
66ScissorhandE1 5b 2
 SOUTH EAST TOR  
68Long ClimbM *9
69JumperD 8
70Farce FoundS 5
71VolcanoVD *27
72SunsetHS 4b **26
73Messing with the KidE2 5b *7
74MorganVD *31
75Last of the Summer WineVS 4b 22
76Keyhole CrackVD *35
77LadderM 16
78Prominent GrooveVD 5
79OsloD 13
 LITTLE COCK TOR  
81Just Lookf5 *5
82The Groundsmanf7A *1
83The Boys of SummerE1 5c 22
84Cyanide and HappinessE2 5c **2
85The Age of InnocenceHVS 5b 7
86Mosquito Whamf7A **1
87The OutsiderE2 5c  
Volunteer to moderate Hen Mountain
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

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