Hen Mountain

Climbs 81 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 302m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
An easily accessible playground of granite tors with some very good slabby routes. A lovely place to climb, though quite exposed and windy.

Most of the climbs on Hen are single pitch, although there are some longer excursions which are no harder than HS. In places it is possible to climb the slabs almost anywhere at a similar grade, so individual routes are not listed. There are also far more problems and short routes than are officially recorded - the place rewards meandering solo.

The rock is generally clean and sound but there is often not much protection to be found (including for belays), so many of the routes tend to get soloed or top roped.

Access notes
About 20 mins walk-in along the track which leads between Hen Mountain and Rocky Mountain. The uncool landowners strictly forbid dogs.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbs in the Mourne Mountains (2010), A Rock Climbing Guide to the Mournes (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 WEST TOR 
2AryanS 4a
3Paper FriendsVS 4b
4Common RouteM
5Common AreteM
6Jim's JauntVD *
7The Merry PloughboyVD
8UncertaintyD
9Bumblebee TunaE3 6a
10High NoonHS 4c
11High Noonf4 *
12Undercut Flakef4+ *
13Struggle GullyS 4a
 THE TOWER 
15Wet PaintHVS 5a
16Jump RouteVS 4c
17EscalatorD **
18Escalator DirectS 4a
19Elevator Timf5+
20Test PilotE5 6b **
21The DrainHVS 4c
22AsteriskE2 5b **
23Asterisk Direct StartHVS 4c
24Asterisk Right-HandE1 5b
25UnforgivenE4 6a *
26PurgatoryE5 6b
27Last RitesE5 6a **
28Journey into LifeE3 5c ***
29Quare CrackE1 5b ***
30Destination UnknownE2 5b
31Yeni GolHS 4a **
32Dreams of DistanceE2 5c
33Whole of the MoonE2 6a
34Yeni Gol (Variation A)VS 4b
35Yeni Gol (Variation B)VS 4b
36The BoulderD
37Slanting SlipperVS 4a
38Y-Crack LeftHS 4a
39Y-Crack RightVS 4b *
40Travelling TalesE1 5a
41FingerbowlS 3c ***
42East AreteM **
 SUMMIT TOR 
44Main StreetE1 5c *
45Little OneE1 5c
46King of the MountainsE2 6a **
47The One They Call the White HairVS 4c
48Yak-YakD
49SimplicityVD **
50AtheneVS 4b *
51Miami DolphinE2 5b *
52Only Fools and HorsesE4 6a
53Ethical BackfireE2 5b ***
54Ethical Backfire (Direct Finish)E2 5b
55LA RaiderE1 5a *
56LA Raider (Direct Finish)E2 5b
57DifficilityVS 5a *
58Summer's EndE1 5b *
59AncientcyVD *
60ModernityVD *
61TouchdownE1 5c
62SuperbowlHVS 5a *
63Sudden ImpactHVS 5b *
64The Man with no NameVS 4c
65ScissorhandE1 5b
 SOUTH EAST TOR 
67Long ClimbM *
68JumperD
69Farce FoundS
70VolcanoVD *
71SunsetHS 4b **
72Messing with the KidE2 5b *
73MorganVD *
74Last of the Summer WineVS 4b
75Keyhole CrackVD *
76LadderM
77Prominent GrooveVD
78OsloD
 LITTLE COCK TOR 
80Just Lookf5 *
81The Groundsmanf7A *
82The Boys of SummerE1 5c
83Cyanide and HappinessE2 5c **
84The Age of InnocenceHVS 5b
85Mosquito Whamf7A **
86The OutsiderE2 5c
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles

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These details were last updated on 13/Oct/2013

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