This neglected quarry to the south of Matlock features a fine vertical wall of compact rock. The routes date from the 1980s (all the steep trad cracks) and the late 90s (all the hard sport routes). It has never been popular although the routes are actually very good and, if cleaned up, would give some great pitches worth 2 to 3 stars.
There is no formal access agreement although the quarry is now occupied by travellers and there is unlikely to be anyone around who would be bothered by your presence.
The quarry is situated just south of Matlock off the A6, 200m south of the Boat House pub. Park in the Pay and Display (as for Pic Tor) and walk back up the road towards Matlock. At a works entrance on the left turn sharp left and head up a track past some containers. At a clearing cross over leftwards towards the wall and find a small track which leads up to the big corner of On the Road.
|2||On the Road||E3 5c *||1|
|3||Ground Zero||7c+ *||5|
|4||The Squealer||7c **||17|
|5||The Squealer - Direct Finish||7c+ **||2|
|6||The Squealer - Super Direct||7c+ ***||2|
|8||Dark Matter||8b *||1|
|9||Edge of Darkness||6b+ *||63|
|10||Big Spider, Small Bath||7b+ *||7|
|11||Good Time Emporium||7b **||13|
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|Thanks for the advice. It does look very overgrown - its just that i work down that way often and have an hour or two to spare some times and difficult to find partners at such short notice. i use horseshoe for convenience on dropping a rope down and shunting - the routes at lorry park look terrific and people have done a great job bolting, cleaning and climbing them. If i can get strong enough would love to climb there this year. Best regards. John|
john yates - 13/Jun/10
|I wouldn't recommend trying to get to the top of the crag, its a bit awkward and overgrown. Best just to go with a partner.|
J_Clark - 12/Jun/10
|Went to look at the quarry today and it has some super looking routes. Is it possible to access the top of the quarry and set up a rope to shunt some of the routes? Took the footpath off the steep road in the middle of matlock, but the final few yards to the cliff edge seemed barred by dense thickets of nettles and brambles. Could the locals advise?|
john yates - 10/Jun/10
|Nice one Pete even with a bit more traffic it can still quiet and a bit adventurey|
matt - 31/May/05
|Beware of the travellers dogs !|
Mark Lloyd - 30/Jun/04