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These details were last updated on 22/Aug/2008

Tissington Spires (Dovedale)

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 88 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 125m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A complex group of pinnacles of good rock up to 45m high. Routes follow grooves/cracks or tackle steep pocketed faces such as Simeon Wall, home of the delighful Simeon (VS 4b, 5a) and the immensely satisfying Ten Craters of Wisdom (VS 4b, 5a). Most oustanding section is John Peel Wall, host of many high quality climbs including the excellent trio of John Peel (HVS 5a, 5a), George (E1 5b), and Yew Tree Wall (E1 5c, 4c). For something spicier see how you fare on the desperate Caeser (E4 6a, 5c).

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CHELSEA BUTTRESS  
2Veteran's ChimneyS 4a * 
3Thunder RibHS 4b 3
4Pensioner's GrooveVS 4b 1
5Roaring FortiesHVS 5a 1
6Bird Box RouteHVS 5b  
7Slime TraverseVS 4c  
 NORTH AND CENTRAL GULLY AREA  
9CampanileS 4a *66
10London BridgeE2 5b  
11WhackoE3 5c *5
12The Man with X-Ray EyesE2 5b *12
13FetishS 1
14FetlockVS 5b 1
15So This is SummerE4 6c  
 SENTINEL BUTTRESS  
17Topsy TurvyHVD 2
18Sentinel CrackS 2
 KEEP BUTTRESS  
20Finders KeepersE3 6b  
21Keeper's CrackS 4b  
22BoomerangHS 4c 1
 BACK WALL  
24Desolation RowHVS 5a  
25Victoria FallsHVS 5a 1
26HortusHS 4b 6
27Model WorkerHVS 5a 1
28Rattus NorvegicusHVS 4c  
29MeanderVD  
30Rose BowlHVS 5b 7
31Don van VlietE1 5c 1
32Ten Craters of WisdomVS 5a **179
33SimeonVS 4c *59
34Simeon DirectHVS 5a *28
35Archibald the GrimE2 5c *6
36MassambulaE2 5c  
 Climb nameGradex
37Sunburst and SnowblindVS 4c  
38Woodlouse WallVS 4c  
39Flopsy Bunny goes to the ZooE1 5b 3
40Dovedale Chainsaw MassacreE2 5c  
41Bird StreetE2 5c  
 SILICON WALL  
43SiliconHS 4b **126
44Manna MachineVS 4c *29
45Under PressureHVS 5b 1
46A Secret StateE3 5c *14
47TormentorHVS 5b  
48DeflectorE1 4c  
49Rumble RidgeS  
 SOUTH GULLY AREA  
51MandarinHVS 4c  
52BrutusE1 5b *62
53There Will Be Blood8a 1
54CaesarE4 6a **19
55Destot's GapE5 6c  
56GeorgeE1 5b ***103
57John PeelHVS 5a ***104
58Black FlipE4 6a 3
59Wild BillE2 5c *8
60Yew Tree WallE1 5c **116
61Calamity JaneE1 5b 5
62Uncle SamHVS 5a  
63Orange PeelE3 6a *3
64Faulty TowersVS 4c  
 SOUTH GULLY BUTTRESS  
66Zulu DawnE5 6b *1
67And the WeatherE1 5b 1
68Dr LivingstoneVS 4b *15
69The Mystery TourS 4b 2
70Stanley WallVS 4c 1
71AmoebaHVS 5a  
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Access notes
From the Dovedale car park (SK 147509) near Ilam, follow the footpath along the right bank (facing upstream) up and over Lovers Leap. The spires are situated in the trees on the right about 1/4 mile past Lovers Leap, (approx 1 mile from start).

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer EarlyBird ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I climbed there this weekend and getting to the routes was fine. There are quite a lot of nettles in the gullies, especially below John Peel area, but the paths are obvious. Quality trad limestone.
ctodd ? - 04/Sep/11

Hi Steph, I know that underused climbs can return to nature very quickly. I have climbed in the John Peel area recently and that seems fine - as does the Ten Craters area. The paths aren't the best I'd agree, but it's all part of the fun of limestone. Dovedale is managed by the National Trust - I'm not sure what their policy is on crag clean-ups. I'll raise it at the next BMC area meeting. Cheers, Alan
EarlyBird ? - 02/Aug/11

The climbs at Tissington Spires are very inacessible. I went 30th July 2011, and couldn't get anywhere near the rock, as so many plants/trees has spiralled out of control. It is a shame as it is a large area and looks like some great climbs. There are some sort of pathways up but they are very stoney and dangerous to climb with all your gear on your back. Would be good if it all got cut back to a decent level so it can be acessed. Don't believe the rockfax picture, nothing like it now!
climbingsteph ? - 01/Aug/11