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Tissington Spires (Dovedale) Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 88 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 125m a.s.l – Faces W
A complex group of pinnacles of good rock up to 45m high. Routes follow grooves/cracks or tackle steep pocketed faces such as Simeon Wall, home of the delighful Simeon (VS 4b, 5a) and the immensely satisfying Ten Craters of Wisdom (VS 4b, 5a). Most oustanding section is John Peel Wall, host of many high quality climbs including the excellent trio of John Peel (HVS 5a, 5a), George (E1 5b), and Yew Tree Wall (E1 5c, 4c). For something spicier see how you fare on the desperate Caeser (E4 6a, 5c).
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987)
Climbs at this crag
From the Dovedale car park (SK 147509) near Ilam, follow the footpath along the right bank (facing upstream) up and over Lovers Leap. The spires are situated in the trees on the right about 1/4 mile past Lovers Leap, (approx 1 mile from start).
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer EarlyBird
I climbed there this weekend and getting to the routes was fine. There are quite a lot of nettles in the gullies, especially below John Peel area, but the paths are obvious. Quality trad limestone.|
ctodd - 04/Sep/11
Hi Steph, I know that underused climbs can return to nature very quickly. I have climbed in the John Peel area recently and that seems fine - as does the Ten Craters area. The paths aren't the best I'd agree, but it's all part of the fun of limestone. Dovedale is managed by the National Trust - I'm not sure what their policy is on crag clean-ups. I'll raise it at the next BMC area meeting. Cheers, Alan
EarlyBird - 02/Aug/11
The climbs at Tissington Spires are very inacessible. I went 30th July 2011, and couldn't get anywhere near the rock, as so many plants/trees has spiralled out of control.
It is a shame as it is a large area and looks like some great climbs.
There are some sort of pathways up but they are very stoney and dangerous to climb with all your gear on your back.
Would be good if it all got cut back to a decent level so it can be acessed.
Don't believe the rockfax picture, nothing like it now!
climbingsteph - 01/Aug/11