Climbs 25
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent, Little Chris on pitch 4 © Toerag

Crag features

An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.

Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.

Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.

A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on

Approach notes

No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1PhiladelphiaS 1
2ThrillerE4 6a **2
3Ashes to AshesE1 5b 4
4Salai Direct StartHVS 4c 1
5SalaiVS 4c *6
6Take the Stone
E5 6b ** 
7Sword in the StoneE5 6a/b ** 
E6 6b  
9Pull Harder Still!
E3 5c  
10ExcaliburE1 5b **12
11ProspectorE5 6b ** 
12Desecration (post damage)HVS 5a 2
13GuinevereE2 5b *1
14CabochonE3 5c  
15PagasusHVS 5a 1
16MercuryE1 5b 3
17Have Fun Going BlindE2 5b * 
E1 5a 2
19Icarus, variationHVS 5a 1
D 1
21The Knights that say 'Raad!'E2 5b *3
22Heels over Headf6A ***2
23Rowan Atkinsonf6A *2
24Power Pinchf7A **1
25Joustingf5 **1

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