Excalibur Buttress

Climbs 25 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.

Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.

Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.

A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on www.gmc.org.gg

Approach notes
No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.

Guernsey Coastal Walks and Scrambles (1996), Jersey and Guernsey (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1PhiladelphiaS 1
2ThrillerE4 6a **2
3Ashes to AshesE1 5b 4
4Salai Direct StartHVS 4c 1
5SalaiVS 4c *6
6Take the StoneE5 6b ** 
7Sword in the StoneE5 6a/b ** 
8IncensedE6 6b  
9Pull Harder Still!E3 5c  
10ExcaliburE1 5b **11
11ProspectorE5 6b ** 
12Desecration (post damage)HVS 5a 2
13GuinevereE2 5b *1
14CabochonE3 5c  
15PagasusHVS 5a 1
16MercuryE1 5b 3
17Have Fun Going BlindE2 5b * 
18IcarusE1 5a 1
19Icarus, variationHVS 5a 1
20GorgonD 1
21The Knights that say 'Raad!'E2 5b *3
22Heels over HeadV3 ***2
23Rowan AtkinsonV3 *2
24Power PinchV6 **1
25JoustingV1 **1
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