An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.
Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.
Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.
A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on www.gmc.org.gg
No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.
|2||Thriller||E4 6a **||2|
|3||Ashes to Ashes||E1 5b||3|
|4||Salai Direct Start||HVS 4c||1|
|5||Salai||VS 4c *||5|
|6||Take the Stone||E5 6b **|
|7||Sword in the Stone||E5 6a/b **|
|9||Pull Harder Still!||E3 5c|
|10||Excalibur||E1 5b **||11|
|11||Prospector||E5 6b **|
|12||Desecration - needs a re-ascent||none 5a||1|
|13||Guinevere||E2 5b *||1|
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