Excalibur Buttress

Climbs 25 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
An impressive crag composed of Perelle Gneiss offering clean routes up to 90ft long.

Rock quality is generally good, there are a few pre-1996 untrustworthy pitons on some routes.

Many routes are non-tidal, including 'Excalibur', Guernsey's steeper answer to Cenotaph corner. Potential for new routes in the E5+ range.

A complete suntrap. Topos & routes descriptions on www.gmc.org.gg

Access notes
No bird restrictions although seagulls nest above the climbs. Park by 'the bunker with the balanced roof' and follow your nose slightly Rwards down the end of the headland to arrive at the top of the crag. Scramble down a gully formed by a vein of 'coco-pop' rock to the west (fisherman's rope sometimes in place on a boulder at the top), or abseil in (single thin rebar stake at the top of the route Excalibur installed in 2001, needs backing up). It is possible to make a loose dirty descent to the eastern end of the crag, but getting to sea level is awkward.

Guidebooks
Guernsey Coastal Walks and Scrambles (1996), Jersey and Guernsey (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1PhiladelphiaS
2ThrillerE4 6a **
3Ashes to AshesE1 5b
4Salai Direct StartHVS 4c
5SalaiVS 4c *
6Take the StoneE5 6b **
7Sword in the StoneE5 6a/b **
8IncensedE6 6b
9Pull Harder Still!E3 5c
10ExcaliburE1 5b **
11ProspectorE5 6b **
12Desecration - needs a re-ascentnone 5a
13GuinevereE2 5b *
14CabochonE3 5c
15PagasusHVS 5a
16MercuryE1 5b
17Have Fun Going BlindE2 5b *
18IcarusE1 5a
19Icarus, variationHVS 5a
20GorgonD
21The Knights that say 'Raad!'E2 5b *
22Heels over HeadV3 ***
23Rowan AtkinsonV3 *
24Power PinchV6 **
25JoustingV1 **
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