Climbs 10
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Steve Giles about to commence the annual gardeneing session! © Toerag

Crag features

A good little cliff, mostly clean solid rock although the routes high up in the gully are not so appealing. Climbs are mostly slabs or corner routes, some are tidal. It's easy to climb here and at Hanois cliff and Excalibur Buttress as they all use the same descents and are 100m apart.

Approach notes

At low tide use the Hanois cliff approach and scramble round to the base of the climbs from the north, once these flood either abseil in from the boulder on the ledge or use the Excalibur butress 'cocopop rock' gully approach.

No bird bans, although shags sometimes nest in the top of the gully, so avoid those routes in spring.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1SleepwalkerD  
2Dreams of CreamVD 1
3Sour Kraut
-
D 2
4Victory VeeHVS 5b 3
5Victory Vee (variation finish)HVS 4c  
6Liberation Crack
-
S 13
7DirectissimaE1 5a  
8Petit Surplomb
-
VS 4c 7
9Prussian BluesE2 5c  

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