Climbs 43
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Nathan On a Tricky Route © Nathan Fallaize

Crag features

This is the end of the Icart peninsular and is gradually becoming a stack as the 'coupée' crumbles away. There are 2 'crags', Upper Goat Crag is non-tidal, Lower Goat Crag is. Kid island is a small clean stack east of the coupée accessible from about 2 hours before low water, although some of the routes need a lower state of tide (may not dry on neaps). Kid island is sheltered in W'erly or SW'erly winds. Goat crags are sheltered from easterlies. Take care when topping out on Kid Island.

Approach notes

For the Goat crags park at Icart carpark ( year round toilets & Kiosk in summer) and follow the cliffpath round to the headland before heading down the climbers path along the right-hand side of the ridge. Using in-situ stakes & the big boulder to belay off, rig a rope to 'abseil' across the chossy coupée - return by scrambling/prussiking. For Kid Island head down the eastern side of the descent ridge nearly to sea level then follow a wide ledge system back towards the coupée. It is possible to get across to the Goat crags from Kid Island, but then you'll be short on time. Kid island needs the tide to be about 2 hours either side of low water or below for the scramble approach, and a bit higher if you cross the coupée and descend down the grassy ridge to it, however you'll need to do a see-saw abseil to get back off the stack. No bird restrictions, but seagulls nest on the Chateau and Kid Island.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Upper Goat Grag 
2Amber Gambler
-
HS 4b 1
3Perseus
-
VS 4c 3
4Agent Orange
-
HVS 5a 1
5AurigaE5 6a  
6AlpheratzE4 5c * 
7Demon StarE4 5c ** 
8Andromeda
-
E1 5b **2
9Trouble with Lichen
-
E1 5b 2
10Space Probe
-
S  
11Space Probe variation
-
VS 4c 1
12Don't Fear the Creeper
-
HVS 5a 3
13Herbie
-
VD 4
14Tucker's route
-
S 2
15Paraquat Groove
-
VD 1
16Blowout
-
HS 4a 1
 Lower Goat Crag 
18Lower goat crag tidal infosummit  
19Yellow Rain
-
HVS 5a  
20Double Exposure
-
E1 5a  
21The Wild Web
-
E5 6a  
22Don't Monkey With The Monkey
-
E2 5b  
23Smaug
-
HS 4b 3
24Slippery Dick
-
E1 5b 2
25Nicky's lineHS 4b 1
26Billy The Kid
-
VS 4c 3
27The Naked Ape
-
VS 4c  
28Legolamb
-
HVS 5a *2
29Breezy
-
S 6
30The Hare and The Tortoise
-
D 2
 Kid Island 
32Raptured on the RocksS 1
33Octo
-
S 1
34Whole NutS 2
35Puss
-
HVS 4c 1
36Wise Crack
-
D  
37Fruit and Nut
-
HS 4b 2
38Bananas
-
HVS 4c 4
39Ro-Ro
-
S  
40Karabiner Falls
-
VD  
41Yellow Spur
-
E1 5b *2
42Gymcrack
-
HVS 5a 2
43Up and Under
-
VS 4c 1
 New Route potential 
45The wide cracknone  
 unsorted climbs 
47Intruder *
-
VS 4c 1
48The Pink Panter *
-
HVS 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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