Ballygalley Head

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 2m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The rock here has a columnar formation and dries quickly after rain. The routes are all single-pitch, up to 30m and mostly follow crack lines offering good protection. Some of the easier routes are loose and should be treated with caution. Best routes are:Lucky Strike VS**,Reprisal* VS Kleptomaniac VS**, Harry VS**, Debbie VS**, Deadline HVS**,Clearway and Vindication E1**.

Access notes
The crag is roadside and situated just south of Ballygalley village on the Antrim Coast Road.

The roadside nature of the crag has its drawbacks, and the occupiers of the surrounding land, Ballygalley Golf Club have withdrawn their permission for climbing to carry on. Their fears stem from any liability they may have if climbers on their land cause an accident to road users.

The FMCI has requested that any climbers exercise caution if climbing on the crag. The main hazards to road users stem from stones being knocked down. For descent you can use lower offs above Reprisal or Deadline

Guidebooks
Fair Head (2014)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1TapiolaVD
2W.C.VD
3Iky MoS
4SlipskidE1 5c
5Lucky StrikeVS 5a **
6ReprisalVS 4c **
7SabreS *
8AstronautS
9HammerS
10Quiet TimesHVS 5b
11PostieVS 5a *
12Rupert Bear and Bright Red WelliesHVS 5b *
13Warm UpVS 4b
14CigareteHVS 5a
15American BeautyVD *
16Lunar ProbeVD
17GerminalMVS 4b *
18Dirty SoxVS 4b *
19Silent RuningHS 4b
20PocketHVS 5a *
21BlackballedE2 5c *
22Full Tilt Boogie CrackHVS 5b
23Days of HeavenHVS 5a
24IllegalHS 4b
25Dire StraightsE3 5c *
26VindicationE1 5b ***
27Cat's EyesVS 4c **
28Night FlightE1 5b *
29DeadlineHVS 5a ***
30KleptomaniacVS 4c **
31These Foolish thingsHVS 5b *
32Star Spangled BannerHVS 5b **
33ClearwayE1 5b **
34ChanceryHS 4b *
35SingerHVS 5b
36FinaVD
37EquityMS
38HarryVS 4c ***
39DebbieVS 4c **
40DodgemsVS 4b
41Close to the EdgeHVS 5b *
42Roadside AttractionHVS 5a **
43Mister GuiltyHVS 5a *
44Nokey's ArêteHVS 5a
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road closed 22 sept 2014 for 8 weeks
auld al - 05/Oct/14