Ballygalley Head

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 2m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The rock here has a columnar formation and dries quickly after rain. The routes are all single-pitch, up to 30m and mostly follow crack lines offering good protection. Some of the easier routes are loose and should be treated with caution. Best routes are:Lucky Strike VS**,Reprisal* VS Kleptomaniac VS**, Harry VS**, Debbie VS**, Deadline HVS**,Clearway and Vindication E1**.

Access notes
The crag is roadside and situated just south of Ballygalley village on the Antrim Coast Road.

The roadside nature of the crag has its drawbacks, and the occupiers of the surrounding land, Ballygalley Golf Club have withdrawn their permission for climbing to carry on. Their fears stem from any liability they may have if climbers on their land cause an accident to road users.

The FMCI has requested that any climbers exercise caution if climbing on the crag. The main hazards to road users stem from stones being knocked down. For descent you can use lower offs above Reprisal or Deadline

Guidebooks
Fair Head (2014)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1TapiolaVD 1
2W.C.VD 1
3Iky MoS 13
4SlipskidE1 5c 4
5Lucky StrikeVS 5a **14
6ReprisalVS 4c **25
7SabreS *9
8AstronautS 2
9HammerS 1
10Quiet TimesHVS 5b 1
11PostieVS 5a *2
12Rupert Bear and Bright Red WelliesHVS 5b *2
13Warm UpVS 4b 5
14CigareteHVS 5a 1
15American BeautyVD *8
16Lunar ProbeVD 1
17GerminalMVS 4b *2
18Dirty SoxVS 4b *3
19Silent RuningHS 4b 2
20PocketHVS 5a *2
21BlackballedE2 5c *1
22Full Tilt Boogie CrackHVS 5b 1
23Days of HeavenHVS 5a 1
24IllegalHS 4b 3
25Dire StraightsE3 5c *1
26VindicationE1 5b ***6
27Cat's EyesVS 4c **4
28Night FlightE1 5b *4
29DeadlineHVS 5a ***14
30KleptomaniacVS 4c **7
31These Foolish thingsHVS 5b *1
32Star Spangled BannerHVS 5b **4
33ClearwayE1 5b **6
34ChanceryHS 4b *5
35SingerHVS 5b 1
36FinaVD 1
37EquityMS  
38HarryVS 4c ***11
39DebbieVS 4c **6
40DodgemsVS 4b 2
41Close to the EdgeHVS 5b *1
42Roadside AttractionHVS 5a **1
43Mister GuiltyHVS 5a *1
44Nokey's ArêteHVS 5a 1
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road closed 22 sept 2014 for 8 weeks
auld al - 05/Oct/14