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These details were last updated on 06/Jul/2012

Ballygalley Head

Co. Antrim, IRELAND

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 2m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
The rock here has a columnar formation and dries quickly after rain. The routes are all single-pitch, up to 30m and mostly follow crack lines offering good protection. Some of the easier routes are loose and should be treated with caution. Best routes are:Lucky Strike VS**,Reprisal* VS Kleptomaniac VS**, Harry VS**, Debbie VS**, Deadline HVS**,Clearway and Vindication E1**.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Fairhead (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1W.C.VD 1
2Iky MoS 14
3SlipskidE1 5c 4
4Lucky StrikeVS 5a **14
5ReprisalVS 4c **26
6SabreS *12
7AstronautS 6
8PostieVS 5a *2
9Rupert Bear and Bright Red WelliesHVS 5b *2
10Warm UpVS 4b 4
11CigareteHVS 5a 1
12American BeautyVD *7
13Lunar ProbeVD 1
14GerminalMVS 4b *1
15Dirty SoxVS 4b *2
16Silent RuningHS 4b 2
17PocketHVS 5a *2
18BlackballedE2 5c *1
19Days of HeavenHVS 5a 1
 Climb nameGradex
20IllegalHS 4b 3
21Dire StraightsE3 5c * 
22VindicationE1 5b ***4
23Cat's EyesVS 4c **4
24Night FlightE1 5b *3
25DeadlineHVS 5a ***11
26KleptomaniacVS 4c **10
27These Foolish thingsHVS 5b *1
28Star Spangled BannerHVS 5b **4
29ClearwayE1 5b **3
30ChanceryHS 4b *2
31FinaVD 1
32EquityMS  
33HarryVS 4c ***12
34DebbieVS 4c **5
35DodgemsVS 4b 2
36Roadside AttractionHVS 5a **1
37Close to the EdgeHVS 5b *1
38Mister GuiltyHVS 5a *1
Access notes
The crag is roadside and situated just south of Ballygalley village on the Antrim Coast Road.

The roadside nature of the crag has its drawbacks, and the occupiers of the surrounding land, Ballygalley Golf Club have withdrawn their permission for climbing to carry on. Their fears stem from any liability they may have if climbers on their land cause an accident to road users.

The FMCI has requested that any climbers exercise caution if climbing on the crag. The main hazards to road users stem from stones being knocked down. For descent you can use lower offs above Reprisal or Deadline

Classifieds
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The Fairhead guidebook is back in print as from june2002! woohoo!
Ted Moncat - 02/Aug/02

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