Llyn Brianne (Carmarthenshire)

Climbs 34 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The climbing at Llyn Brianne is located in 4 main areas of the old quarry, that of Entrance Wall and Hangover Buttress, which, respectively, consist of slabby tiers and a distinctive steep brown wall and are passed on the approach road; and then Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall which lies above a broad terrace north of Car Park. The latter wall is some 300m long, 30m high, the upper tiers of which are very loose and vegetated.

Some routes have pitons or bolts placed on them though a rack is occasionally needed, so the overall style involves quite well protected climbing with some suspect rock. Bolts are 8mm diameter steel hangers with 3 or 5 cm stems epoxy cemented into tight fitting holes; they should take a leader fall but have no UIAA stamp of approval. The easier Entrance Wall routes, though bolted, are of a rather bolder character. Recently many extra heavy duty bolts have been added to make most routes safe undertakings.

Descents: Entrance Wall - walk to easy slopes to the east. Hangover Buttress - scramble west from the middle ledge or abseil from the huge stake. Walk off west from the top ledge. Car Park Quarry - a short step on the north side leads to the 1st terrace below the main Wall from here walk down to the car park (keep north initially).

Approach notes
All routes are practically roadside, with a car park and toilet facilities.

Upper Towy Valley Climbs

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2LucyVD 1
3BrianS ***8
4LynnS *2
5Streaky BaconS *2
6High CholesterolVS 4c *1
7MeanderS 3
8Question of BalanceVS 3
10One For the RoadVD *4
11Orange SafariVS **3
12Reservoir DogS *2
13Hair of the DogE1 5b * 
14CosmoE1 5b **6
15Attitude AdjustmentHVS **3
16Pangalactic GarglebusterVS 4
17HangoverHVS 5a **6
18ListerineE4 6b **2
19Dirty VimtoE4 6a ***1
20Cheeky HalfE2 5c ***3
21Alcoholics AnonymousHVS 5a ***5
22Mike's Hard LemonadeS  
23Milk of AmnesiaE1 5b *1
25SundownerHVS **1
26Royal FlushVS 4b **9
27The ShieldE3 6a **2
28Sink the BismarckE1 5b **3
30BlackendeckerE2 5b ***1
31Close ShaveVS 4c **2
32RazorVS 4c * 
33Cutting EdgeVS 4b * 
36Question of Balance, 5b variationE2 5b 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The routes close to cheeky half are solid, its worth a stop off for these few. However in general, its not a great venue due to poor rock quality, unless you like that sort of thing.....
alan rosier - 05/May/14