Climbs 34
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Dan Harris on Royal Flush VS+ Llyn Brianne. © ccliff

Crag features

The climbing at Llyn Brianne is located in 4 main areas of the old quarry, that of Entrance Wall and Hangover Buttress, which, respectively, consist of slabby tiers and a distinctive steep brown wall and are passed on the approach road; and then Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall which lies above a broad terrace north of Car Park. The latter wall is some 300m long, 30m high, the upper tiers of which are very loose and vegetated.
Some routes have pitons or bolts placed on them though a rack is occasionally needed, so the overall style involves quite well protected climbing with some suspect rock. Bolts are 8mm diameter steel hangers with 3 or 5 cm stems epoxy cemented into tight fitting holes; they should take a leader fall but have no UIAA stamp of approval. The easier Entrance Wall routes, though bolted, are of a rather bolder character. Recently many extra heavy duty bolts have been added to make most routes safe undertakings.
Descents: Entrance Wall - walk to easy slopes to the east. Hangover Buttress - scramble west from the middle ledge or abseil from the huge stake. Walk off west from the top ledge. Car Park Quarry - a short step on the north side leads to the 1st terrace below the main Wall from here walk down to the car park (keep north initially).

Approach notes

All routes are practically roadside, with a car park and toilet facilities.

The routes close to cheeky half are solid, its worth a stop off for these few. However in general, its not a great venue due to poor rock quality, unless you like that sort of thing.....
alan rosier - 05/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Entrance Wall 
2LucyVD 1
3BrianS ***9
4LynnS *2
5Streaky BaconS *2
6High CholesterolVS 4c *1
7MeanderS 3
8Question of BalanceVS 3
 Hangover Buttress 
10One For the RoadVD *5
11Orange SafariVS **3
12Reservoir DogS *2
13Hair of the DogE1 5b * 
14Cosmo6a **6
15Attitude Adjustment5b **3
16Pangalactic GarglebusterVS 4
17Hangover5b **6
18Listerine7a **2
19Dirty Vimto6b+ **1
20Cheeky Half6a+ ***3
21Alcoholics Anonymous5b ***5
22Mike's Hard LemonadeS  
23Milk of AmnesiaE1 5b *1
 Car Park Quarry 
25SundownerHVS **1
26Royal Flush4c **11
27The Shield6a+ ***2
28Sink the Bismarck5c ***3
 Main Wall 
30BlackendeckerE2 5b ***1
31Close ShaveVS 4c **2
32RazorVS 4c * 
33Cutting EdgeVS 4b * 
 Top Bridge Area 
36Question of Balance, 5b variationE2 5b 1

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