Altitude 300m a.s.l
Dan Harris on Royal Flush VS+ Llyn Brianne. © ccliff
The climbing at Llyn Brianne is located in 4 main areas of the old quarry, that of Entrance Wall and Hangover Buttress, which, respectively, consist of slabby tiers and a distinctive steep brown wall and are passed on the approach road; and then Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall which lies above a broad terrace north of Car Park. The latter wall is some 300m long, 30m high, the upper tiers of which are very loose and vegetated.
Some routes have pitons or bolts placed on them though a rack is occasionally needed, so the overall style involves quite well protected climbing with some suspect rock. Bolts are 8mm diameter steel hangers with 3 or 5 cm stems epoxy cemented into tight fitting holes; they should take a leader fall but have no UIAA stamp of approval. The easier Entrance Wall routes, though bolted, are of a rather bolder character. Recently many extra heavy duty bolts have been added to make most routes safe undertakings.
Descents: Entrance Wall - walk to easy slopes to the east. Hangover Buttress - scramble west from the middle ledge or abseil from the huge stake. Walk off west from the top ledge. Car Park Quarry - a short step on the north side leads to the 1st terrace below the main Wall from here walk down to the car park (keep north initially).
All routes are practically roadside, with a car park and toilet facilities.
|The routes close to cheeky half are solid, its worth a stop off for these few. However in general, its not a great venue due to poor rock quality, unless you like that sort of thing.....|
alan rosier - 05/May/14