A splendid quarry, like an unspoilt (unpegged) mini Millstone Edge. Strong features; square cut aretes, grooves and clean cut jamming cracks. Nice clutch of routes between HVS and E3. Best HVSs are Poteen (5b), The Old Triangle (5a), Kershaw's Krackers (5c). The Arete (E2 5b), Sinn Fein (E3 5c) and Guns and Drums (E5 6a) being particularly fine hard routes. Only problems are seepage from the cracks after rain and a bit of veg. at the start of some climbs.
From Tintwistle (WSK 023974) head east on the Woodhead Pass Rd (A628) for about 1 mile. On the right is a reservoir access road and opposite the old quarry track. Once located head back 300 yards to a layby (DO NOT block the reservoir access track). Follow the old track as it winds up the hill to reah the quarry in 20 min.
|1||Levi||E1 5b *||6|
|3||Scimitar||HVS 5b *||27|
|4||Poteen||HVS 5b **||16|
|5||Sinn Fein||E3 5c **||4|
|6||The Old Triangle||HVS 5a **||32|
|7||Nil Carborundum Illigitimum||E3 5c *||7|
|8||The Arete||E2 5c ***||68|
|9||O'Gradey's Incurable Itch||E5 6c **||1|
|10||The Little Spillikin||E3 6a *||5|
|11||Gerry Adams' Beard||E4 6b *||1|
|12||Kershaw's Krackers||HVS 5c **||25|
|13||Stiff Little Fingers||E1 5b *||7|
|14||Cornflake||VS 4c **||32|
|15||Soapflake||VS 4c *||5|
|16||Knobblekerry Corner||VS 4c *||14|
|17||Nosey Parker||E4 6a **|
|18||Black Michael||VS 4c||4|
|20||Good Things Come to Those Who Wait||E3 5c *|
|21||Guns and Drums||E4 6a **||3|
|22||Wall and Groove||HVS 5a *||3|
|23||The Peace Process||E5 6b *||1|
|24||Fenian Wall||E4 6a *|
|25||Republic Groove||HVS 5a||1|
|28||Dublin cracks||S **||4|
|31||Dream Chaser||V8 6c||1|
|32||Gobbin Grove||VS 4c *||1|
|34||Shillelah Grove||HVS 5a||1|
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|O gradey's offers the best whipper in the north.|
Franco Cookson - 10/Aug/12
|A pleasant 15 min walk up to the quarry and great views are possibly the only reason (besides the layback classics and The Arete) to take time out of one’s busy climbing schedule to sample Tints delights.
The old triangle was a seeping snot fest despite previous sustained great weather, as for its 2 stars and 5a tech grade ill have to agree to disagree.
Knobblekerry corner a 4c??!! Lack of gear for the last 15m while climbing from one shrubbery to the next is eerie.
In short:- you’re in the peaks with the best climbing substance known to mankind beneath you, do the grit and yourself a favour and go someplace else.|
tommakin - 21/Apr/09