Black Cliff Quarry

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Excellent solid rock, unpolished, mostly bolted, 1 minute walk in. At present routes being checked for up-print of Lower Wye Valley Guidebook - some 8mm bolts to be replaced with 12mm bolts - good summer evening venue.

Access notes
Lies within the Black Cliff and Wynd Cliff Nature Reserve area - so careful gardening is advised. Parking is difficult - do not obstruct the Livox Quarry entrance.

Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Twenty Years AfterHS 4b
4World Cup FeverE3 5c
5Fool's Gold6a+ *
8Carnival Time6a+
9Stolen Kisses5a *
11Cutting Edge5c
13Web HeadHS 4a
14ToxygeneHVS 5a
15Cat's Eyes6a
16www.quipuonline.com6a+ *
17Cat Flap6a
18My Karma Ran over My DogmaE1 5b
19WhiplashHVS 5b
20Close Call6c+
21Back to Work5a
22Come to LightE1 5a
23Rising SunE1 5c
24Mad about Machines6b+
25Wolf WhistleHVS 5a **
27Trigger Finger6a+
30The End is Nigh6a+
31See page 596a
32Oracle6a+ *
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A roadside jungle adventure.....very overgrown and therefore completely unpolished. Walk up the hill from Livox quarry for about 50m and look for a very hidden path into the left side of jurassic park. The traffic is quite intrusive.
SGD - 27/Jul/14
So chossy and overgrown. I turned round and headed straight back to wyndcliff without doing any routes. Full on jungle experience, very little light gets to the rock.
s0458892 - 28/May/14
overgrown a little at the bottom of the routes but the rock itself is clean. couple of little stonefalls but nothing major, having been to tintern quarry earlier in the day!
combatrock - 12/Jul/13
Went here yesterday for a look. VERY overgrown with bramble and Japanese knotweed. Rock quality good, but routes need a lot of gardening!! Could be good little crag if it got the traffic, right now not worth the effort.
stranter - 12/Aug/12
Good crag, very overgrown!! Had some issues with stolen kisses into the top of whiskas! The bolts for the station at top of whiskas have some play in them!!! Caution is advised
revolvingdoorno2 - 10/Apr/11
**Correction: Head left UP the hill.
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
A really good crag to climb if you're wanting to start sport climbing and live locally to the area. There are new bolts on the main section (possible Livox Buttress) with some technical climbs if you're are making the move from indoor to outdoor. Had a bit of trouble finding it though: if you park in the quarry entrance head left back down the hill a bit (this wasn't stated in the Wye valley guide book and we walked right past it - whoops).
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
It is currently (June 2010) possible to park in the Livox quarry entrance as this has now finished operations.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10
Easily the worst crag in the Wye valley but worth a single visit to do the few starred routes especially 'Wolf Whistle'.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 03/Jan/2013

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