Black Cliff Quarry

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Excellent solid rock, unpolished, mostly bolted, 1 minute walk in. At present routes being checked for up-print of Lower Wye Valley Guidebook - some 8mm bolts to be replaced with 12mm bolts - good summer evening venue.

Approach notes
Lies within the Black Cliff and Wynd Cliff Nature Reserve area - so careful gardening is advised. Parking is difficult - do not obstruct the Livox Quarry entrance.

Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Twenty Years AfterHS 4b  
3Networking6a+ 1
4World Cup FeverE3 5c 1
5Fool's Gold6a+ *2
6Skylight3 1
8Carnival Time6a+ 1
9Stolen Kisses5a *28
10Whiskas4a 4
11Cutting Edge5c  
13Web HeadHS 4a  
14ToxygeneHVS 5a  
15Cat's Eyes6a 1
16www.quipuonline.com6a+ *4
17Cat Flap6a 4
18My Karma Ran over My DogmaE1 5b  
19WhiplashHVS 5b  
20Close Call6c+ 2
21Back to Work5a  
22Come to LightE1 5a  
23Rising SunE1 5c  
24Mad about Machines6b+ 2
25Wolf WhistleHVS 5a **8
26Mowser4c 12
27Trigger Finger6a+ 7
28Aramis5a 26
30The End is Nigh6a+ 16
31See page 596a 16
32Oracle6a+ *11
33Cyberspace4c 10
34Crucible4c 13
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
If you like tree branches sticking in your ear while you try to clip and are fond of muddy hand holds and a sandbag grade, then Black Cliff is for you. Sadly the best route here (the HVS crack) now has two trees growing out of it
drgrange - 25/Jun/15
A roadside jungle adventure.....very overgrown and therefore completely unpolished. Walk up the hill from Livox quarry for about 50m and look for a very hidden path into the left side of jurassic park. The traffic is quite intrusive.
SGD - 27/Jul/14
So chossy and overgrown. I turned round and headed straight back to wyndcliff without doing any routes. Full on jungle experience, very little light gets to the rock.
s0458892 - 28/May/14
overgrown a little at the bottom of the routes but the rock itself is clean. couple of little stonefalls but nothing major, having been to tintern quarry earlier in the day!
combatrock - 12/Jul/13
Went here yesterday for a look. VERY overgrown with bramble and Japanese knotweed. Rock quality good, but routes need a lot of gardening!! Could be good little crag if it got the traffic, right now not worth the effort.
stranter - 12/Aug/12
Good crag, very overgrown!! Had some issues with stolen kisses into the top of whiskas! The bolts for the station at top of whiskas have some play in them!!! Caution is advised
revolvingdoorno2 - 10/Apr/11
**Correction: Head left UP the hill.
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
A really good crag to climb if you're wanting to start sport climbing and live locally to the area. There are new bolts on the main section (possible Livox Buttress) with some technical climbs if you're are making the move from indoor to outdoor. Had a bit of trouble finding it though: if you park in the quarry entrance head left back down the hill a bit (this wasn't stated in the Wye valley guide book and we walked right past it - whoops).
peteruk - 20/Mar/11
It is currently (June 2010) possible to park in the Livox quarry entrance as this has now finished operations.
Urgles - 12/Jun/10
Easily the worst crag in the Wye valley but worth a single visit to do the few starred routes especially 'Wolf Whistle'.
Urgles - 12/Jun/10