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View larger mapGrid Ref ST 532981 (OS Landranger #162)

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These details were last updated on 03/Jan/2013

Black Cliff Quarry

Monmouthshire, WALES

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 132m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Excellent solid rock, unpolished, mostly bolted, 1 minute walk in. At present routes being checked for up-print of Lower Wye Valley Guidebook - some 8mm bolts to be replaced with 12mm bolts - good summer evening venue.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
20 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
8 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
9 °C
23 kph

9.7mm rain
Cloudy
8 °C
22 kph

3.7mm rain
Cloudy
8 °C
29 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CASTLE BAY  
2Twenty Years AfterHS 4b  
3Networking6a+ 1
4World Cup FeverE3 5c 1
5Fool's Gold6a+ *2
6Skylight3 1
7Tapehead5+  
8Carnival Time6a+ 1
9Stolen Kisses5 *25
10Whiskas4 4
11Cutting Edge5+  
 LIVOX BUTTRESS  
13Web HeadHS 4a  
14ToxygeneHVS 5a  
15Cat's Eyes6a 1
16www.quipuonline.com6a+ *3
17Cat Flap6a 2
 Climb nameGradex
18My Karma Ran over My DogmaE1 5b  
19WhiplashHVS 5b  
20Close Call6c+ 2
21Back to Work5  
22Come to LightE1 5a  
23Rising SunE1 5c  
24Mad about Machines6b+ 2
25Wolf WhistleHVS 5a **8
26Mowser4+ 7
27Trigger Finger6a+ 5
28Aramis5 17
 SHADY BAY  
30The End is Nigh6a+ 11
31See page 596a 12
32Oracle6a+ *9
33Cyberspace4+ 4
34Crucible4+ 7
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Access notes
Lies within the Black Cliff and Wynd Cliff Nature Reserve area - so careful gardening is advised. Parking is difficult - do not obstruct the Livox Quarry entrance.

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Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
overgrown a little at the bottom of the routes but the rock itself is clean. couple of little stonefalls but nothing major, having been to tintern quarry earlier in the day!
combatrock - 12/Jul/13

Went here yesterday for a look. VERY overgrown with bramble and Japanese knotweed. Rock quality good, but routes need a lot of gardening!! Could be good little crag if it got the traffic, right now not worth the effort.
stranter - 12/Aug/12

Good crag, very overgrown!! Had some issues with stolen kisses into the top of whiskas! The bolts for the station at top of whiskas have some play in them!!! Caution is advised
revolvingdoorno2 - 10/Apr/11

**Correction: Head left UP the hill.
peteruk - 20/Mar/11

A really good crag to climb if you're wanting to start sport climbing and live locally to the area. There are new bolts on the main section (possible Livox Buttress) with some technical climbs if you're are making the move from indoor to outdoor. Had a bit of trouble finding it though: if you park in the quarry entrance head left back down the hill a bit (this wasn't stated in the Wye valley guide book and we walked right past it - whoops).
peteruk - 20/Mar/11

It is currently (June 2010) possible to park in the Livox quarry entrance as this has now finished operations.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10

Easily the worst crag in the Wye valley but worth a single visit to do the few starred routes especially 'Wolf Whistle'.
The Pylon King - 12/Jun/10