An excellent new sports venue with a mix of grades. The upper crag is non-tidal and gives steep climbing on compact rock, like a miniature version of Foxhole.
The lower crag is accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide and dries quickly, providing steep climbing on generally good holds and perfect rock. The whole place is a sheltered suntrap in winter, with very little seepage, and in summer the sun moves across crags, so you can climb in sun or shade.
Approach: From the NT car park at Southgate walk east along the road as far as Bosco’s Lane, then out to the headland with the wooden bench. Bear left, facing out to sea, and follow a vague track under a small outcrop then back round to the right past a gaping hole. The crag lies in the small embayment below you, and can be accessed down the steep slope to the west, though a safer approach is to walk a
little further and down the next grassy slope, then work back to the crag.
|3||Breccial Motion||6b+ *||31|
|4||Parlour Games||7a+ **||27|
|7||Parlour Francaise||7c *|
|8||When I'm 64||7a+ ***||17|
|12||All Of A Quiver||6a *||33|
|14||Reaction Series||6b **||25|
|15||Bowen to the Inevitable||6a **||51|
|16||Parlour Vous le Sport||6a+ **||42|
|17||Feud for Thought||6b **||25|
|18||Gentlemen Prefer Bolts||6c *||18|
|20||Gentleman's Retreat||6a+ *||8|
|22||Wisdom of Age||5a||44|
|23||Sallies of Youth||5c||50|
|24||Where's Me Boots *||HS 4b||2|
|25||Best Be Quick *||HS 4b||2|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Dear free lunch provider.
The derogatory term 'Budgie hugger' for people (including climbers) who actually love nature as well as climbing is not actually very helpful!!. There is no ban as the nesting birds are not choughs|
chris wyatt - 12/Jul/14
|seen a post on SWMC wikki about a nesting budgie ban in the cave bla bla "landward".
Does this mean the budgie huggers are ok with climbing in the sea zawn as even peregrines aren't dull enough to nest underwater????|
freelunchprovider - 16/May/14
|The bench in the approach no longer exists. To find the crag, head downhill from the second hillock from the car park.|
richardr - 25/Sep/12