An excellent new sports venue with a mix of grades. The upper crag is non-tidal and gives steep climbing on compact rock, like a miniature version of Foxhole.
The lower crag is accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide and dries quickly, providing steep climbing on generally good holds and perfect rock. The whole place is a sheltered suntrap in winter, with very little seepage, and in summer the sun moves across crags, so you can climb in sun or shade.
Approach: From the NT car park at Southgate walk east along the road as far as BoscoAccess notes
Approach: From the NT car park at Southgate walk east along the road as far as Bosco’s Lane, then out to the headland with the wooden bench. Bear left, facing out to sea, and follow a vague track under a small outcrop then back round to the right past a gaping hole. The crag lies in the small embayment below you, and can be accessed down the steep slope to the west, though a safer approach is to walk a
little further and down the next grassy slope, then work back to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Bull Fighter||7b+ **||4|
|4||Prawn Star||6b+ *||1|
|6||Hard Prawn||6c+ *||1|
|7||Soft Prawn||6a+ *||2|
|8||For King Trad Prawn||E1 5a *|
|9||Prawn Cock Tale||6a||2|
|10||Teen Prawn||S 4a|
|12||Prawn Balls||HVS 5a *|
|13||Young's Modulus *||6b||1|
|14||Rudaceous Ramble||6a+ *||56|
|15||Breccial Motion||6b+ *||36|
|16||Parlour Games||7a+ **||31|
|19||Still Nifty at Fifty||7a+ *||2|
|20||Parlour Francaise||7c *|
|21||When I'm 64||7a+ **||22|
|25||All Of A Quiver||6a *||34|
|26||Bowen Arrow||6a *||41|
|27||Reaction Series||6b *||33|
|28||Bowen to the Inevitable||6a **||57|
|29||Parlour Vous le Sport||6a+ **||42|
|30||Feud for Thought||6b **||27|
|31||Gentlemen Prefer Bolts||6c+ *||18|
|32||Gentlemans Relish||6a *||19|
|33||Gentleman's Retreat||6a *||8|
|35||Wisdom of Age||5a||44|
|36||Sallies of Youth||5c||50|
|37||Where's Me Boots *||HS 4b||2|
|38||Best Be Quick *||HS 4b||2|
|42||The Curse Of Bristol *||M||1|
|43||The Long Ashton Spoiler *||S||1|
|44||Disgusted of Shepton Mallett *||VS 4c||1|
|45||Back To The Eighties *||HS 4b||1|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Dear free lunch provider.
The derogatory term 'Budgie hugger' for people (including climbers) who actually love nature as well as climbing is not actually very helpful!!. There is no ban as the nesting birds are not choughs|
chris wyatt - 12/Jul/14
|seen a post on SWMC wikki about a nesting budgie ban in the cave bla bla "landward".
Does this mean the budgie huggers are ok with climbing in the sea zawn as even peregrines aren't dull enough to nest underwater????|
freelunchprovider - 16/May/14
|The bench in the approach no longer exists. To find the crag, head downhill from the second hillock from the car park.|
richardr - 25/Sep/12