UKC

Climbs 6
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces SE

View Stats

the crag and its problems © Dave Bradbrook

Crag features

A small cove with some high quality bouldering. So far only a small accessible part has been climbed on but there is still potential for much more. Users must be careful as allot of the problems are high ball being about 7m tall.

Approach notes

Easiest accessed by going through the garden of Baggy lodge however there is another more time consuming way to access it by walking along the coast.

Good quality rock, but not a very pleasant location. The cove has lots of debris and seaweed in, and lots of sea lice living in the rock crevices. Routes need to be down climbed as no walk off top out. Traverse opposite was a bit greasy still, but if fully dry could be ok to climb.
Jonno - 31/Jul/19
This piece of rock is in the gully known as "Polly's Gully", named after the tea-rooms (Polly's team room) which are now part of Baggy Lodge. When you walk from the National Trust car park, Baggy Lodge/Polly's is the last place on the left. You walk up a slight incline from the car park to a gate (always open) If you look over the wall just after the gate, you are looking down into Polly's gully As mentioned, worth bringing a mat, as there a few lowish problems on the opposite wall worth a go, as well as a lot of high-ball stuff. The entire side of the gully that contains "sand grain butress" can be traversed at a low level at a fairly easy grade It is worth exploring the foreshore between Polly's gully and Fresh Gut (where the stream you cross on the footpath to the point cuts down to the sea), as there are more bouldering opportunities, both at the top of the tide, and some further out, only accessable at very low tide. The best bouldering being on rock that has been wave washed
Gruniens - 15/Mar/12
Visited this crag whilst I was in the locality. There is lots of potential for new routes in this gully, bring a mat though as the landing is mainly on large pebbles so would be easy to turn an ankle on. It is also a tidal area, not a big problem as it's an easy scramble to escape up the grassy bank to Baggy lodge, but it does mean that there is a lot of detritus (including what we think is the remains of a very decomposed sheep) washed up at the high tide mark. The nearer the sea the higher the tide line on the rock, it can be very greasy and smooth until above this line. We climbed on the slab with the described routes on which has some nice climbs but the rock near the top is very friable. We also found a challenging (for us atleast) traverse on the wall opposite.
DreadyCraig - 13/Jul/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Quarryboy

Loading Notifications...