Short bouldery routes on one side and slabby routes on the other. Recent cleaning efforts have improved landings and topouts on the left section, meaning all of the Sanction Wall routes can be approached in the modern highball style, with multiple pads and spotters. Many of these are now clean and in a climbable state for the first time in three decades.
The quarry is green but fairly fast-drying. There is also a good bouldering circuit with some stiff challenges up to font 7C.
Lies just before the corner at the top of the scout road. Further up than Wilton 2 and 3. Wilton 4 is shared with the gun club. Climbers have priority on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. On other days climbers may use the quarry but should make way if shooters arrive.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Teacher's Crack||E4 6c *||1|
|3||Hell's Bells||E5 6b **||2|
|4||White Horse||E4 6b||1|
|5||Haig||E2 6b *||1|
|6||Johnnie Walker||VS 5a||6|
|7||Long John||VS 5c||4|
|8||Neat Whiskey||VS 6a *||6|
|10||Mort Subite||E5 6c|
|11||Glenfiddich||HVS 5b *|
|12||Suspended in Cryonics||E5 6c|
|13||100 Pipers||HS 4a|
|14||Cutty Sark||HVS 5b||2|
|15||Lady Ice||E5 6b *|
|16||Cold Emotions||E4 5c|
|17||Inverted Triangle||HS 4a *||5|
|19||Vat 69||VS 5a||2|
|20||Clan Dew||S 4a|
|21||Central Avenue||HVS 5a|
|22||Cossack Crack||E2 5b *||2|
|25||Dry Cane||E2 5c||3|
|27||EKU 28||E3 5c *||9|
|30||Pasty Man||VS 4b||1|
|36||The Lancashire Levitators||f6A|
|37||The Renaissance Man *||f7B+||3|
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