St David's Head

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Gabbro – Altitude ? – Faces all

Crag features
North Buttress: 20m routes from HVS to E3 6a, excellent rock, best on summer evenings with low tide. Weed is an worthwhile E1.

St David's Head Zawn: Found just North of the last promontory of the headland.

South Buttress: Sunny aspect, scramble approach (see access notes) short (15m) climbing, includes routes ideal for first time leaders. Gear is good and belay setup is plentiful. Base non tidal in calm seas.

Stepped Roof Buttress (South Face Upper Tier): Just above and east of the South Face is a small buttress (10m) with a flat grassy base. Identifiable by a mid height stepped roof and a distinctive central full height serrated crack. Apparently used by some outdoor groups, but routes not recorded. The obvious central line goes at around VS, harder and easier options exist either side.

Some bouldering exists between north and south crags.

Access notes
Usually no nesting restrictions, but worth checking BMC RAD in case of variable restrictions in the area. Walk to end of headland, and scramble down to the narrow constriction near the very end. The south face is down the ramp to the left. Two obvious gullies intersect the face, the second would appear to be the drainage gully of the guide. The 'main face' is past this second steeper gully, a quartz band runs along its base.

The north buttress is reached along wave cut platform to right/north, then descending a ramp seawards. Crag is on the corner before the small cove containing Craig y Crisial.

Both crags are non-tidal apart from the extreme ends of the walls.

Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Balancing Act *HVS 5a
3Flower Pot ManHVS 5a
4WeedE1 5b *
5Gripping YarnsE3 6a
6Reachy Roof RouteE3 6a *
7The EmbevmetronE1 5b
8Silver SunsetE2 5c *
10Terry's RouteE2 5c *
11Zawn OffE2 5c **
12Pikey Joe's Tale of WoeE2 5b
14Oyon's boxing gullyM
15Double TakeS 4a
16Rakish crackVD
17Overhanging ButtressHVS 5a *
18Central CrackS 4a
19Step UpS 4a *
20Pull UpVS 4c
22The RakeD *
23Yo-YoE2 5b *
24FunnyboneE2 5b *
25StaircaseD *
26Staircase VariantVD
28'Cos Happiness is the RoofHS 4c *
30Black AreteV1
31Black WallV3
32North BishopV1
33Carreg RhosonV3
34Daufraich WallV2
35South BishopV1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Ivanator

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Where can I get a guide for this crag, I have Rockfax Pembroke but it is missing!
Beans - 16/Mar/11
Climbed there yesterday escaping cool wind from NW and a seeping Mur Cheninen.Excellent little crag ,the HVS is "way out" overhanging on big holds.
Bob Bennett - 05/Aug/03