Altitude 98m a.s.l
Richard McHardy on Lime Street Direct (E1), Willersley, 1996 © Gordon Stainforth
A good traditional crag with routes up to 40m long (some two pitches). With the exception of the 'Fowleresque' middle section the rock is sound if a little veggie near the top. Stays dry in the rain for some time, but greasy early in the year.! Lots of worthwhile climbs in the VS to E3 range. Classics include Cucumber Groove, Garrotter(both VS 4c), Pothole Wall (VS 4c,5a), Sycamore Flake (VS 4c,4c), Lone Tree Groove (HVS 5a,4b) and Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b). The route of the crag is Lime Street Direct (E1 5c difficult start only, 4c). The best of the few sport routes is Whatta Riot f7b. Low level traverse is fun bouldering.
From Cromford on the A6 turn right for Crich on the B5053. Parking available on the rihgt after passing the canal/mill complex (SK 301572). Cross the road to gain access via a concessionary path (2 min).