Willersley Castle Rocks

Climbs 90 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 98m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
A good traditional crag with routes up to 40m long (some two pitches). With the exception of the 'Fowleresque' middle section the rock is sound if a little veggie near the top. Stays dry in the rain for some time, but greasy early in the year.! Lots of worthwhile climbs in the VS to E3 range. Classics include Cucumber Groove, Garrotter(both VS 4c), Pothole Wall (VS 4c,5a), Sycamore Flake (VS 4c,4c), Lone Tree Groove (HVS 5a,4b) and Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b). The route of the crag is Lime Street Direct (E1 5c difficult start only, 4c). The best of the few sport routes is Whatta Riot f7b. Low level traverse is fun bouldering.

Access notes
From Cromford on the A6 turn right for Crich on the B5053. Parking available on the rihgt after passing the canal/mill complex (SK 301572). Cross the road to gain access via a concessionary path (2 min).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LIME STREET AREA  
2Strapashintomyf6A+ **2
3GripperE1 6a 14
4GrasperHVS 5b 33
5Close ComfortHVS 5a 8
6Great CornerVS 4c *122
7HangoverE3 6b 1
8ZombieE2 5b *80
9Mighty Like a RoseE5 6a 3
10Haste, Not Tomato PasteE5 6a 6
11Growl Tiger's Last StandE2 5c **109
12GodE1 5b *92
13Sun ChariotE7 6b ***1
14Crown of ThornsE4 6a/b **5
15Lime Street Super DirectE2 6a 5
16Lime Street DirectE1 5c ***177
17Lone Tree EdgeE1 5b *16
18Lone Tree GrooveHVS 5a **128
19Immaculate DeceptionE2 6a 6
20Sycamore Flake DirectHVS 5b *11
21Tommy GunE3 5c 1
22Londons BurningE5 6a *3
23Sycamore FlakeVS 4c *65
24White Riot/WhattaE5 6b **6
25SurplombVS 4c 17
26Sparkle in the RainE5 6a 2
27Jericho WallVS 4c 9
28BabylonHVS 5b *31
29Sumerian's WallHVS 5b 1
30False IdolHVS 5b 1
31Lamplighter gullyVS 4c 2
32Aurora BorealisE2 5c *1
33Gethsemane GroovesVS 4c 13
 POT HOLE WALL AREA  
35Last TestamentE3 5c **26
36Wind of ChangeE1 5b *11
37Guts Ache GrooveVS 4c **195
38GuillotineVS 4c *55
39Chopping BlockE2 6a *3
40GarrotterVS 4c ***274
41Halo Left-handHVS 5b *4
42Halo Right-handHVS 5b *1
43BagatelleHVS 5a *10
44TrampE4 6b *1
45Pleasure DomeE2 5c **59
46Send No FlowersE4 6a 1
47ExcavatorHVS 4c 25
48Pothole WallVS 5a ***220
49Gangue GroovesHVS 5b **166
50EurospeedE3 6a 2
51EuromessE1 5b *13
52Overhanging WallHVS 5a *43
 BOOMERANG AREA  
54PulsatorE3 5c 2
55P.T.O.E2 5c **56
56In the BeginningE5 6a *2
57Diseased MeatE4 6a *3
58Blessed are the Weak7a+ **55
59Mine is the KingdomE5 6a *7
60The Power And The Glory7c+ **2
61Hallowed be My Name7c+ **10
62BoomerangHVS 5b **55
63Running BlindE4 6a  
64Like No Two MarrowsE4 6a 1
65Cucumber CrackHVS 5a 28
66Cucumber GrooveVS 4b *142
67Cucumber VariantVS 4c *29
68SisyphusE2 5c 15
69AdamantHVS 5a *42
70Constable CrackE2 5b 5
71White Wall CornerHVS 5a *49
72Beyond RecallHVS 5a 8
73Stranglers in the NightVS 4c 8
74Roadside cornerVD 6
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer simon pape

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
We've climbed there a few times over the summer with no problems, and quite a few others there too. However we were asked to leave yesterday (Sunday 9th Oct, 2006) by a chap from Cromford Mill (who own the rock with the Arkwright Soc. not Willersley Castle). We think that perhaps climbing is tolerated, but if you are 'reported' (by observant walkers i think in this case) they have to send someone over. Might be wrong. There was no one else climbing which is surprising so maybe they've toughened up?
Alys - 09/Oct/06
went there last night couldn't see any signs and loads of people there climbing. 7/06/06
robin richmond - 08/Jun/06
brilliant crag, don't let the sighns put you off, I have been climibing there a number of times and have not been asked to leave.
Blinder - 17/Mar/05
Went there a couple of weekends ago and no one climbing so assumed access was banned. No sign of recent traffic either.
Duncan Tunstall - 13/Dec/04
Willersley is dream crag for the VS man. Guts Ache Groove is a must along with the other routes mentioned in the revue. Great corner is often dry when all around is wet. But do not venture into the upper garden area at any time of year !
Marcus Tierney - 11/Nov/04
Climbing is not appreciated by the people who own the land, from the Hall opposite they can see the top of the routes. The BMC guidelines are to keep a low profile and not swear. As for the climbing is dangerous signs .... well it is isn't it.
MJS - 05/May/04
I saw there signs as well. Question to rockfax, can you still climb there ?
jon - 04/May/04
There are several signs attached to trees stating that no climbing is to take place on this crag due to safety reasons (as at 20th July 2003). What is the BMC line?
Armchair - 21/Jul/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 19/Sep/2014

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Chaddesden, DERBYSHIRE
Dedicated centre.
"We boast over 1100 sq metres of climbing, including both bouldering and roped climbing. Our wall is set in a prime location and is really easy to find, being..."
theclimbingunit.com