Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry)

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 136m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features

Good concentration of excellent routes, both trad and (hard) sport, generally requiring a disproportionate amount of power.

Approach notes

Split Rock is reached from the main Wells to Wookey Hole road. For safety reasons, the following is the only permitted approach: about one mile from Wells town centre there is a sharp bend to the right just past the EMI works, and about 300 metres after there is a narrow road to the right which is followed for about 400 metres to a parking area on the left in front of the gate to the quarry itself. Do not block the farmer's entry to the field opposite -- instead, if the car park is full, return to Wells and approach by foot. Do not turn right onto the main road after leaving the crag; nor attempt to access the crag coming from Wookey Hole.

Access notes

The farmer has blocked the access mentioned below, and now I would leave vehicles parked in Wookey Hole (pub car park) and hoof it. [Jon Wilkinson 6/03] Otherwise you drive up there and then have the reverse from hell! [Penny Farthing 6/03]

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Tyro's SlabD 2
2Demolition ManHVS 5a 11
3DuneE5 6b *4
4ArakisE5 6b  
5SaharaE5 6b *6
6A Magenta SmudgeE6 6c * 
7Crimson DynamoE6 6b **21
8Rustic WallE3 5c ***47
9Video KillsE3 5c ***98
10Crocker's CrumbsE4 6a 1
11Red Rag to a BullE5 6b **41
12Medium Very RareE6 6b 2
13Brazen HussyE5 6a 10
14Certain SurpriseE3 5c ***131
15Corsican DaysE3 5c **28
16Polling Day BluesE4 6b  
17Chain Reaction7b+ **4
18Fact or Fission7c **1
19Red Snapper and Chips7c *5
20Smashing of Amps7c+ ***27
21Smashingly ObviousE5 6b ***2
22Tricky DickyE5 6a ***22
23Saboteurs of the Underground7b+ 1
24Smarty Marty7b+ * 
25Gary's GiftE2 5c 12
26Open InvitationE2 5b 5
27End GameE2 5b 10
28Split Rock GirdleE5 6b/c ***1
29Stroll in the Park4c *3
30Pickles CornerM 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Currently a Jackdaw nesting in the crack of Certain Surprise. Wasn't too happy to see us on nearby routes.
whenry - 18/May/15
Smart little spot, great, dynamic and generally well protected climbing on the E3's.
Jon_Warner - 15/Apr/09
Sam's comment is right. Follow Milton Lane rightwards (not left as described in new guide) to an obvious gate / junction where the tarmaced quarry track goes left. Park without blocking anything and an easy stroll leads along the track(s) to the quarry. P.S. Video Kills is amenable and awesome and worth popping in for.
Fiend - 01/Oct/07
its probably best to approach from wells up milton lane, which comes off ash lane. either walk or drive, parking on the left at the top of the lane, and walk straight ahead along footpath through woods, or bear left on new road to more parking as detailed above, and approach up path through woods.ps. currently a bird nesting (with hatched chicks) in the crack of certain suprise.
Sam - 01/Jun/04