A small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few minutes from the parking it is good venue for a quick session. Unfortunately it faces north and so sees little sun, though it makes a great retreat on hot day. The routes have become polished over the years.
Needs Some attention as many of the routes are becoming overgrown due to the Ivy
From the large public parking just south of Matlock on the A6, walk back towards Matlock and cross the bridge just west of the Boat House pub. On the far side turn left along the riverside path. The crag is on the right through an arch and just around the corner.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Permission||E3 6a *||12|
|3||Sulphur City||E3 6a||45|
|4||Big Pig||HVS 5a *||45|
|5||The Impending Glean||HVS 5a *||44|
|6||Burning Spear||HVS 5a *||54|
|7||Nosferatu||E2 5c *||70|
|8||Cistron||E1 5b *||119|
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|Had an evening session here, having not visited for about 20 years, the crag is looking a little neglected, which is a shame as, despite being relatively short, the routes pack in a lot climbing. Silenus is very good and well protected, it would make a good first Limestone E1 lead.
Tip: The car park is expensive, but dont park at John Hadfield house as they padlock the barriers. If you are too mean to pay, lose your car in Matlock and walk.|
Pilch - 30/Apr/09