Pic Tor

Climbs 16 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 110m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few minutes from the parking it is good venue for a quick session. Unfortunately it faces north and so sees little sun, though it makes a great retreat on hot day. The routes have become polished over the years.

Needs Some attention as many of the routes are becoming overgrown due to the Ivy

Approach notes
From the large public parking just south of Matlock on the A6, walk back towards Matlock and cross the bridge just west of the Boat House pub. On the far side turn left along the riverside path. The crag is on the right through an arch and just around the corner.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Little PigS 2
2PermissionE3 6a *14
3Sulphur CityE3 6a 46
4Big PigHVS 5a *48
5The Impending GleanHVS 5a *47
6Burning SpearHVS 5a *56
7NosferatuE2 5c *78
8CistronE1 5b *125
9SilenusE2 5b **164
10ErasmusE2 5c **103
11StenosisE4 5c  
12DiagnosisE4 6a *5
13NeurosisE3 6a *28
14ShrinkE4 6a 2
15PrognosisE2 5c **113
16Clean SweepE1 5a,5b, 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had an evening session here, having not visited for about 20 years, the crag is looking a little neglected, which is a shame as, despite being relatively short, the routes pack in a lot climbing. Silenus is very good and well protected, it would make a good first Limestone E1 lead. Tip: The car park is expensive, but dont park at John Hadfield house as they padlock the barriers. If you are too mean to pay, lose your car in Matlock and walk.
Pilch - 30/Apr/09