Padarn Car Park Quarry

Climbs 5 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
One short slab, no protection. There is one bolt in situ at the far left of the slab about one quarter of the way up. At the top of the crag are some sturdy metal quarry remains; metal pipes and a very handy anchor point.

Approach notes
No problems with access, the crag is 5 minutes walk from the car park. Walk west from the car park towards the Padarn Country Park: the small crag is on the left hand side

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Free Beer Tastes BestE1 6a *5
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Yes this is definitely Biggles Flies Undone to which you refer. It even says in the slate guide that it's been claimed many times, or something to that effect. Besides, there's no way in hell that it's 6a!!! As well as the good peg (not bolt) 1/3rd of the way up, there's plenty of other gear to make this a perfectly safe E1 5b at most.
Tom Last - 26/Feb/10
This crag is Blast Shelter crag, which is described in the guide. The route with the peg (not bolt) is Biggles Flies Undone (E1 5b), and is listed on the Bus Stop Quarry page.
NickD - 03/Nov/08