Cawdor Quarry

Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind Matlock, when driving into the town from the north. There are around 70 climbs here now, mostly courtesy of Gary Gibson, on steep walls up to 25m high. The climbing is steep and technical and generally the routes are well-bolted. Judging by the size of the trees that that grow up close to the face the quarry has been abandoned for over 40 years but despite this, the cliff has not weathered well and much loose rock remains. The worst of this has been removed but be aware of the possibility of falling rock at all times. Despite the unprepossessing setting there is little doubt that these routes will become popular and this should help clean them up.

Access notes
The crag is situated below the minor road that runs between Matlock and Darley Bridge. Turn right onto the minor road (signed Snitterton) immediately after crossing the main bridge in Matlock when southbound. Follow the road as it winds uphill until the wide entrance of Halldale Quarry is seen on the left. Park here or in a lay-by on the other side of the road. Cross the wall and descend the steep slope to access the left-hand end of the quarry.

Guidebooks
From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Peak Lime Extra MiniGuide (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

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went for a look (17/08/2014) and its clear its not been climbed on for some time. Many routes have shattered rock, or plants growing out of the rock. Also a big rockfall on the RHS. Would recommend a "serious" cleaning operation before anyone considers climbing there again.
Tim Broughtonshaw - 19/Aug/14
I'm a veteran of esoteric quarry climbing all over the UK, including Lancashire, Leicestershire, West Midlands, as well as the usual Peak suspects from Hall Dale to Small Dale, and I can safely say this is a bag of toss. The trees and shady aspect aren't the problem, the chossy, dirty, lineless and entirely uninspiring rock is. A waste of bolts.
Fiend - 06/Aug/07
I really didn't think it was that bad... Yes, a bit of loose rock, but climbing up Rusty wall into evening views down the valley is worth it.
Pythonist - 04/Oct/05
Grim as f*ck.
bomb - 11/Sep/05
As a Matlock resident, I'm amazed to see anyone bother with Cawdor Quarry. It's a pretty depressing place to climb when you're close to loads of beautifully situated crags. Still, takes all sorts I suppose. Strongly suggest you don't go near the pond though. I don't think the anglers would like it.
Harry Lime - 11/Dec/04
The whole place is crap, too loose and dirty to bother with. My usual rule is that any place is worth one visit to make up your own mind, however in this case I regret the waste of my time.
Peter Steward - 10/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 26/May/2010

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