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These details were last updated on 26/May/2010

Cawdor Quarry

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind Matlock, when driving into the town from the north. There are around 70 climbs here now, mostly courtesy of Gary Gibson, on steep walls up to 25m high. The climbing is steep and technical and generally the routes are well-bolted. Judging by the size of the trees that that grow up close to the face the quarry has been abandoned for over 40 years but despite this, the cliff has not weathered well and much loose rock remains. The worst of this has been removed but be aware of the possibility of falling rock at all times. Despite the unprepossessing setting there is little doubt that these routes will become popular and this should help clean them up.

Access notes
The crag is situated below the minor road that runs between Matlock and Darley Bridge. Turn right onto the minor road (signed Snitterton) immediately after crossing the main bridge in Matlock when southbound. Follow the road as it winds uphill until the wide entrance of Halldale Quarry is seen on the left. Park here or in a lay-by on the other side of the road. Cross the wall and descend the steep slope to access the left-hand end of the quarry.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.2mm rain
Sun
20 °C
13 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
20 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
20 °C
15 kph

0.7mm rain
Sun
20 °C
13 kph

3.0mm rain
Sun
21 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Lime Extra MiniGuide (2004), From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill (2004), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Slug Matador6a 1
2Boffin6c+ 1
3Nit-Wit4a 9
4Pedal to the Metal6a 4
5All in Glory6c 1
6Thirst for Glory6a 6
7Woodward on the Wing6a 1
8Empo on a Spring6a+ 2
9Footsie6a+ 3
10Unbalanced5a 9
11Taylor Made6b+  
12Ta Nick7a  
13Lady Luck6a 2
14Apologia6a+ 6
15Rust Never Sleeps6c *5
16Willows Never Weep6a+ 7
17Trust Never Keeps6c 1
18Encore Plus6b 1
19The Impulsive, Compulsive Beat6b+ 2
20Triple X6a+ 3
21New Face in Hell6c 1
22Coward6a+ 5
23Family Ties6a *4
24Freaky Friday6a+ 2
25Cawdor Nothing6c+ *1
26The Cutting Crew7a 1
27Virgin on Porn6b 1
28Boobie Prize6b 5
29Breast Stroke6a 5
30Breast is Best6a 9
31Porn to Run6a+ 1
32The Porn Curtain5a 7
33Porn Palace6b+ 2
34Vibrators6a+ 1
 Climb nameGradex
35Brazilian Style6c+ *2
36All Mine6c+ *3
37Yours Truly6b 6
38Analyse This6b 3
39Demon6c+ *3
40Weakling6b+ *3
41Dirty Duc6a  
42Giddy Ant6b  
43Chocopotamus6a  
44Fisherman's Friend7a * 
45Simply Carp6a 3
46On Higher Perches6a+  
47Pier Review6b+  
48High Tench On6c  
49Ma Pechere5a 5
50Poached Please6a+ 2
51The Fish Course6c  
52Of Course, the Fish6b+  
53Carpin' About6b 1
54Scales of Justice6a+ 1
55Gone Fishing6c  
56Hook, Line and Sinker6b 1
57Small Fry6a+ 1
58Payback6c+ * 
59Totally Wired7a+ ** 
60Spectre versus Rector6b+  
61Agony Ant6b  
62Flaked Out6a+ 1
63Dog Canute6b 2
64Feeding Frenzy6b *2
65Fisherman's Finale6c  
66Five Alive6a+ 1
67Pornilicious6a+ *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
I'm a veteran of esoteric quarry climbing all over the UK, including Lancashire, Leicestershire, West Midlands, as well as the usual Peak suspects from Hall Dale to Small Dale, and I can safely say this is a bag of toss. The trees and shady aspect aren't the problem, the chossy, dirty, lineless and entirely uninspiring rock is. A waste of bolts.
Fiend - 06/Aug/07

I really didn't think it was that bad... Yes, a bit of loose rock, but climbing up Rusty wall into evening views down the valley is worth it.
Pythonist - 04/Oct/05

Grim as f*ck.
bomb - 11/Sep/05

As a Matlock resident, I'm amazed to see anyone bother with Cawdor Quarry. It's a pretty depressing place to climb when you're close to loads of beautifully situated crags. Still, takes all sorts I suppose. Strongly suggest you don't go near the pond though. I don't think the anglers would like it.
Harry Lime - 11/Dec/04

The whole place is crap, too loose and dirty to bother with. My usual rule is that any place is worth one visit to make up your own mind, however in this case I regret the waste of my time.
Peter Steward - 10/Jul/04

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