Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces S

Pleasley Vale, the perfect training venue! © sfletch

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Girdle Traverse 
2Girdle Traversenone 1
 Frog Buttress 
4Cub Climb
-
M 34
5Scout Crack
-
S 4a 22
6Scout Wall
-
E2 6a **1
7Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5c 5
8V.T.O
-
HVS 5c 5
9V.T.O StartV1 35
10Froggerf7B 2
11Grounded
-
E2 6a 10
12Grounded StartV2 *41
13Scrambled
-
E1 5c **10
14Scrambled StartV2 36
15Ceiling Zero
-
E3 6a **4
16Ceiling Zero StartV3 *28
17Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerof5+ 10
18D.T.s
-
E2 5c 1
19The FlueE1 5c 10
20Frog Buttress TraverseV1 34
21Sewer TurnVS 4c **42
22Down the Pan
-
S 4a 8
23Frog's Back Direct
-
VD 18
24Frog's Back
-
D 13
25Frog
-
HD 16
26Croaked
-
VS 4c 9
27Toad Wall
-
HVD 23
28ToadpoleHS 4a 12
29Make It Snappy
-
VS 4c 19
30Crocodile CornerHVD **46
31Merlin's AreteVD 13
32Merlin's Crack
-
D 29
33Merlin's Wall
-
M *37
34Forever AmberHS 4b 16
35Amber BlockHS 4b 14
36Giant's Steps
-
VD 19
37Giant's Arete
-
HS 4b 9
38Peg WallHVD 7
39Root Route
-
M 16
40Flakey Pastry
-
none 007 4
41Black Wall
-
HVS 5a 3
42Panther
-
M 4
43Tiny's Tower
-
S 4a 2
44Apples and Pears
-
M 2
 Jungle Area 
46Tree Corner
-
VD 1
47Jungle Route
-
VD 1
48Bower Corner
-
HD 1
49Bower Crack
-
HD 1
50Green Groove
-
HD 2
51Green Corner
-
D 4
 White Wall 
53Hang AboutHS 5a 9
54Banana Crack
-
S 4a 8
55Pea-pod
-
HVD 6
56Bat Wall
-
HVS 5b **3
57The Belfry
-
VS 5a 6
58Monty
-
HD 9
59Python
-
S 4a 7
60White wallHS 4a 9
61Nick's Nick
-
S 4a 3
62Bobbin
-
HS 4a 1
63Ivy routeD 1
64Nettle CornerHD 2
 Avalanche Buttress 
66Avalanche CrackVD 1
67Avalanche WallVD  
 Giants Staircase Area 
69Giant's Staircase
-
M 6
70Willies Wall
-
HD 2
71Overhang WallHS 4a 2
72Ivanhoe Crack
-
HVD 7
73Santa's ChimneyVD 12
 The Turret 
75Flax WallVS 4c **13
76Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **10
77Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **6
78Buttress Wall
-
E2 5c 4
79Tensing StretchHVD 21
80Hunt's ChimneyVD 21
81HillaryTraverse
-
HD 8
82Thermal
-
VS 5a 4
83Flying Crack
-
VS 4c 7
84Flying Corner
-
VS 4b 4
85Fallen Angel
-
VS 4b 1
86FlutedVS 4c *5
87Funnel
-
HVD 4
88Sinter
-
HS 4b 2
89Filter Corner
-
E2 5c  
 Monks Wall 
91RasputinE2 5c *5
92Monk's Crack
-
VS 4c 3
93Abbot's CrackHVS 5a 3
94Monk's Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
95Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **1
96Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **10
97Nun's NastyVS 4c 4
98Nun's Crack
-
HVD 19
99Convent Wall
-
E1 5c 2
100Convent Arete
-
VS 5a  
101Monks Wall TraverseV2 62
102Crack Leftf4 17
103Flakef6A 22
104Pillar Crackf5 *17
105Crack Rightf4+ 18
106Seamf6A 23
107Yew MonkV8 1
 Yew Tree Wall 
109Yew Tree Traverse
-
f7A+ ***29
110Yew Two7b+ **9
111Problem 8f6A 16
112Holly Tree Wallf6A+ 18
113Statement of Yewff6B+ 16
114Yew Tree Wallf6C 22
115Yew Tree Corner (Start)f6C 23
116Yew Tree Corner
-
E1 5c **3
117Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *11
118Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5 36
119The Pinchf7A 36
120The pinch eliminate - no pinchf7B *1
121The Pinch Superdirectf7C **1
122The Pinch Superdirect ExtensionV10  
123Left Side StoryV9  
124Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2 31
125P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *47
126Demented
-
HVS 5a 4
127Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *29
128Yew What?f6B+ 16
129Problem 19 PB 98f7A 21
130The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0 51
131Cringing Arete
-
VS 4c 9
132Right OnV3 3
 Green Wall 
134Cringing CrowsVS 4c 4
135Crow's Mantle
-
VS 4c 4
136Green WallS 5
137Snowdrop
-
M 5
138ToothlessS 2
139Rose ScoopVD 2
140Rose Arete
-
HS 4a 1
 Lower Tier 
142BlutoVD  
143Popeye's CrackHS 4b  
144Olive Oil's WallS  
145Sweet PeaS  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted