Pleasley Vale

Climbs 130 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 101m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Access notes
Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars.

Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 FROG BUTTRESS 
2Cub ClimbM
3Scout CrackS 4a
4Scout WallE2 6a **
5Fear Of FlyingHVS 5c
6V.T.OHVS 5c
7V.T.O StartV1
8Froggerf7B
9GroundedE2 6a
10Grounded StartV2 5c *
11ScrambledE1 5c **
12Scrambled StartV2 5c
13Ceiling ZeroE3 6a **
14Ceiling Zero StartV3 6a *
15Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerof5+
16D.T.sE2 5c
17The FlueE1 5c
18Frog Buttress TraverseV1 5b
19Sewer TurnVS 4c **
20Down the PanS 4a
21Frog's Back DirectVD
22Frog's BackD
23FrogHD
24CroakedVS 4c
25Toad WallHVD
26ToadpoleHS 4a
27Make It SnappyVS 4c
28Crocodile CornerHVD **
29Merlin's AreteVD
30Merlin's CrackD
31Merlin's WallM *
32Forever AmberHS 4b
33Amber BlockHS 4b
34Giant's StepsVD
35Giant's AreteHS 4b
36Peg WallHVD
37Root RouteM
38Flakey Pastrynone 007
39Black WallHVS 5a
40PantherM
41Tiny's TowerS 4a
42Apples and PearsM
 JUNGLE AREA 
44Tree CornerVD
45Jungle RouteVD
46Bower CornerHD
47Bower CrackHD
48Green GrooveHD
49Green CornerD
 WHITE WALL 
51Hang AboutHS 5a
52Banana CrackS 4a
53Pea-podHVD
54Bat WallHVS 5b **
55The BelfryVS 5a
56MontyHD
57PythonS 4a
58White wallHS 4a
59Nick's NickS 4a
60BobbinHS 4a
61Ivy routeD
62Nettle CornerHD
 AVALANCHE BUTTRESS 
64Avalanche CrackVD
65Avalanche WallVD
 GIANTS STAIRCASE AREA 
67Giant's StaircaseM
68Willies WallHD
69Overhang WallHS 4a
70Ivanhoe CrackHVD
71Santa's ChimneyVD
 THE TURRET 
73Flax WallVS 4c **
74Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **
75Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **
76Buttress WallE2 5c
77Tensing StretchHVD
78Hunt's ChimneyVD
79HillaryTraverseHD
80ThermalVS 5a
81Flying CrackVS 4c
82Flying CornerVS 4b
83Fallen AngelVS 4b
84FlutedVS 4c *
85FunnelHVD
86SinterHS 4b
87Filter CornerE2 5c
 MONKS WALL 
89RasputinE2 5c *
90Monk's CrackVS 4c
91Abbot's CrackHVS 5a
92Monk's WallHVS 5a
93Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **
94Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **
95Nun's NastyVS 4c
96Nun's CrackHVD
97Convent WallE1 5c
98Convent AreteVS 5a
99Monks Wall TraverseV2
100Crack Leftf4
101Flakef6A
102Pillar Crackf5 *
103Crack Rightf4+
104Seamf6A
 YEW TREE WALL 
106Yew Tree Traversef7A+ ***
107Yew Two7b+ **
108Problem 8f6A
109Holly Tree Wallf6A+
110Statement of Yewff6B+
111Yew Tree Wallf6C
112Yew Tree Corner (Start) f6C
113Yew Tree CornerE1 5c **
114Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *
115Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5
116The Pinchf7A
117The Pinch Superdirectf7C **
118Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2
119P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *
120DementedHVS 5a
121Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *
122Yew What?f6B+
123Problem 19 PB 98f7A
124The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0
125Cringing AreteVS 4c
 GREEN WALL 
127Cringing CrowsVS 4c
128Crow's MantleVS 4c
129Green WallS
130SnowdropM
131ToothlessS
132Rose ScoopVD
133Rose AreteHS 4a
 LOWER TIER 
135BlutoVD
136Popeye's CrackHS 4b
137Olive Oil's WallS
138Sweet PeaS
139Girdle Traversenone
140Right OnV3 6a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 11/Dec/2013

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