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These details were last updated on 24/Aug/2012

Pleasley Vale

Nottinghamshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 127 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 101m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996),
Out of print: Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 FROG BUTTRESS  
2Cub ClimbM 28
3Scout CrackS 4a 19
4Scout WallE2 6a **1
5Fear Of FlyingHVS 5c 5
6V.T.OHVS 5c 3
7V.T.O StartV1 31
8GroundedE2 6a 7
9Grounded StartV2 5c *24
10ScrambledE1 5c **6
11Scrambled StartV2 5c 20
12Ceiling ZeroE3 6a **2
13Ceiling Zero StartV3 6a *19
14Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zerofont 5+ 4
15D.T.sE2 5c 1
16The FlueE1 5c 6
17Frog Buttress TraverseV1 5b 18
18Sewer TurnVS 4c **30
19Down the PanS 4a 7
20Frog's Back DirectVD 14
21Frog's BackD 10
22FrogHD 14
23CroakedVS 4c 7
24Toad WallHVD 16
25ToadpoleHS 4a 10
26Make It SnappyVS 4c 10
27Crocodile CornerHVD **30
28Merlin's AreteVD 11
29Merlin's CrackD 21
30Merlin's WallM *27
31Forever AmberHS 4b 11
32Amber BlockHS 4b 9
33Giant's StepsVD 15
34Giant's AreteHS 4b 4
35Peg WallHVD 6
36Root RouteM 14
37Flakey Pastrynone 007 4
38Black WallHVS 5a 3
39PantherM 4
40Tiny's TowerS 4a 2
41Apples and PearsM 2
 JUNGLE AREA  
43Tree CornerVD 1
44Jungle RouteVD 1
45Bower CornerHD 1
46Bower CrackHD 1
47Green GrooveHD 2
48Green CornerD 4
 WHITE WALL  
50Hang AboutHS 5a 9
51Banana CrackS 4a 7
52Pea-podHVD 5
53Bat WallHVS 5b **2
54The BelfryVS 5a 4
55MontyHD 5
56PythonS 4a 6
57White wallHS 4a 7
58Nick's NickS 4a 2
59BobbinHS 4a 1
60Ivy routeD 1
61Nettle CornerHD 2
 AVALANCHE BUTTRESS  
63Avalanche CrackVD 1
64Avalanche WallVD  
 GIANTS STAIRCASE AREA  
66Giant's StaircaseM 2
67Willies WallHD 1
68Overhang WallHS 4a 1
69Ivanhoe CrackHVD 7
 Climb nameGradex
70Santa's ChimneyVD 11
 THE TURRET  
72Flax WallVS 4c **10
73Turret Buttress OverhangHVS 5c **5
74Turret Buttress Overhang DirectE4 5c **3
75Buttress WallE2 5c 2
76Tensing StretchHVD 17
77Hunt's ChimneyVD 18
78HillaryTraverseHD 7
79ThermalVS 5a 4
80Flying CrackVS 4c 6
81Flying CornerVS 4b 4
82Fallen AngelVS 4b 1
83FlutedVS 4c *5
84FunnelHVD 4
85SinterHS 4b 1
86Filter CornerE2 5c  
 MONKS WALL  
88RasputinE2 5c *2
89Monk's CrackVS 4c 3
90Abbot's CrackHVS 5a 3
91Monk's WallHVS 5a 1
92Dirty habbit wallHVS 4c/5a **1
93Dirty Habit CornerHVS 5b **9
94Nun's NastyVS 4c 4
95Nun's CrackHVD 14
96Convent WallE1 5c 2
97Convent AreteVS 5a  
98Monks Wall TraverseV2 39
99Crack Leftfont 4 5
100Flakef6A 7
101Pillar Crackfont 5 *5
102Crack Rightfont 4+ 3
103Seamf6A 8
 YEW TREE WALL  
105Yew Tree Traversef7A+ ***19
106Yew Two7b+ **6
107Problem 8f6A 13
108Holly Tree Wallf6A+ 9
109Statement of Yewff6B+ 6
110Yew Tree Wallf6C 9
111Yew Tree Corner (Start) †f6C 9
112Yew Tree CornerE1 5c **3
113Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2)f7B *8
114Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV5 19
115The Pinchf7A 16
116The Pinch Superdirectf7C ** 
117Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree WallV2 24
118P18 Up To Jug LedgeV3 *33
119DementedHVS 5a 4
120Bulge (YTW)f6A+ *11
121Yew What?f6B+ 8
122Problem 19 PB 98f7A 8
123The Arete (Cringing Arete Start)V0 37
124Cringing AreteVS 4c 8
 GREEN WALL  
126Cringing CrowsVS 4c 4
127Crow's MantleVS 4c 3
128Green WallS 5
129SnowdropM 4
130ToothlessS 2
131Rose ScoopVD 2
132Rose AreteHS 4a 1
 LOWER TIER  
134BlutoVD  
135Popeye's CrackHS 4b  
136Olive Oil's WallS  
137Sweet PeaS  

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars.

Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph ? - 19/Mar/13

Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson ? - 13/Feb/13

the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton ? - 11/Jul/12

The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas ? - 26/May/12

Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
chimneysweep ? - 04/Apr/11

Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 ? - 10/Dec/09

underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07

But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06

I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06

I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06

If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06

This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06