Climbs 49
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

A real gem! Compact, highly pocketed limestone in a beautiful location. A sheltered sun trap make the Tor an all year round venue. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).

Approach notes

From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)

Out of print:
path leading right from the base of the thorn is well and truly overgrown (06/2015) and in-situ rope has rotted through and is not of any use making the narrow footpath which can not be seen a rather scary proposition. well worth taking a machete to the path and putting in a new fixed rope as we had to reverse as getting across was not possible. Also path/ledge below the main pocket symphony slab has overgrown so access to central wall and routes to the right of the pocket symphony belay is not possible without bush wacking attire. nothing a machete wouldnt fix but heading across ivy gash and abbing in seems the only way at present.
jmills94 - 23/Jun/15
Peregrines nesting at the stance of patience this year. Best avoid the far left of the crag til they've gone
sgl0jd - 20/Jul/11
Lovely location - very picturesque and only a 10 minutes or less approach. Rock very solid. The farm below is a bit of a dump and we had the silence ruined for a couple of hours by farmer palmers generator. Still - highly recommended if only to avoid the crowds.
Jules Lane - 26/Apr/10
If river is dry and from before the farm, rather than fully crossing the river, the best approach is to walk down the river bed and join path striking up to crag. Not mentioned in the description, The Thorn is obviously one of the crag classics. A 50m ab from the holly tree gets you to 'base camp'. Grading is on the friendly side - makes a change! Pocket Symphony doesn't stand out as being higher quality than the rest of the trio starting and finishing from the same spot - they're all good. Agree that the approach to the RHS is heinous, even with the fixed ropes - am told there have been fatalities. Possible to avoid by moving R-wards from Pock. Symph belay to gain Black Grub start - scary horiz traverse (roped), or safe pendule.
TonyM - 21/Sep/05
Right hand side is marred by the scramble to get to it - don't take the Rockfax warning lightly. E1 4a business. Put me off going anywhere near there to do the routes.
Fiend - 19/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1West Wall ClimbVS 4c **93
2Beeston EliminateHVS 5a ***65
3Enough TimeHVS 5b 3
4PatienceHVS 5b *39
5The BeestE3 6a ***100
6Principle of MomentsE3 5c *2
7Flying DoctorE5 6b * 
8The ThornHVS 5a ***389
9Double TopE4 6a *1
10Ivy GashHVS 5b *34
11StagnationVS 4c *38
12NocturneVS 4c *99
13Pocket SymphonyE1 5b **291
14Deaf DoveE2 5c *120
15EvensongE1 5a **165
16Midnight MassE3 5c 3
17Central WallVS 4b **112
18CatharsisE3 5c *14
19Black GrubE3 5c ***109
20Cleo's MoodE5 6a *2
21The FlyE3 6a **11
22The WebHVS 5a 4
23The SpiderHVS 5a *5
24Solution PollutionE1 5b 13
25MajolicaE3 5c **70
26FaienceE4 6a *9
27Go Budgie Go
E5 6a *4
28BudgieE4 6a **4
29Bertram's ChimneyVD *13
30Gary GobstoperHVS 5a 3
31Little Crow
32Honorary Buoux7c **4
336667c+ **2
34Beast It!7b 1
35The Beesting8a **1
36Pat-trickE4 6b *2
37The Beeston Bomber8a+ **1
38Lynx Wall *S 5
39Throwley Ridge Grooves *
S 4
40Skylight GrooveHS 5
41White Room *HVS 4c **2
42Trill *
E4 6a 1
43Jerry Hat-trick *
E3 5c 2
44Patience Direct - Beauty *
E2 5c 5
45The Beasty Boys *
E3 6a *3
46Skylight Flake *HS 2
47Buzz *
HS 2
48Lord of the Dance *E3 6a **1
49PerforationHVS 5a * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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