Beeston Tor (Manifold Valley) Staffordshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 48 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces S
A real gem! Compact, highly pocketed limestone in a beautiful location. A sheltered sun trap make the Tor an all year round venue. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).
From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987)
Climbs at this crag
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Peregrines nesting at the stance of patience this year. Best avoid the far left of the crag til they've gone|
sgl0jd - 20/Jul/11
Lovely location - very picturesque and only a 10 minutes or less approach. Rock very solid. The farm below is a bit of a dump and we had the silence ruined for a couple of hours by farmer palmers generator. Still - highly recommended if only to avoid the crowds.
Julian Lane - 26/Apr/10
If river is dry and from before the farm, rather than fully crossing the river, the best approach is to walk down the river bed and join path striking up to crag.
Not mentioned in the description, The Thorn is obviously one of the crag classics.
A 50m ab from the holly tree gets you to 'base camp'. Grading is on the friendly side - makes a change! Pocket Symphony doesn't stand out as being higher quality than the rest of the trio starting and finishing from the same spot - they're all good. Agree that the approach to the RHS is heinous, even with the fixed ropes - am told there have been fatalities. Possible to avoid by moving R-wards from Pock. Symph belay to gain Black Grub start - scary horiz traverse (roped), or safe pendule.
TonyM - 21/Sep/05
Right hand side is marred by the scramble to get to it - don't take the Rockfax warning lightly. E1 4a business. Put me off going anywhere near there to do the routes.
Fiend - 19/Aug/04