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These details were last updated on 24/Jul/2008

Beeston Tor (Manifold Valley)

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 46 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A real gem! Compact, highly pocketed limestone in a beautiful location. A sheltered sun trap make the Tor an all year round venue. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1West Wall ClimbVS 4c *61
2Beeston EliminateHVS 5a ***44
3Enough TimeHVS 5b 2
4PatienceHVS 5a *31
5The BeestE3 6a ***76
6Principle of MomentsE3 5c *2
7Flying DoctorE5 * 
8The ThornHVS 5a ***270
9Double TopE4 * 
10Ivy GashHVS 5b *26
11StagnationVS 4c 29
12NocturneVS 4c *70
13Pocket SymphonyE1 **205
14Deaf DoveE2 5c *94
15EvensongE1 5a **115
16Midnight MassE4 3
17Central WallVS 4b ***86
18CatharsisE3 5c *10
19Black GrubE3 5b ***76
20Cleo's MoodE5 6a 2
21The FlyE3 6a **9
22The WebHVS 5a 2
23The SpiderHVS 5a *2
 Climb nameGradex
24Solution PollutionE1 5b 10
25MajolicaE3 5c *58
26FaienceE4 6a *6
27Go Budgie GoE5 6a *4
28BudgieE4 6a **2
29Bertram's ChimneyVD *11
30Gary GobstoperHVS 5a 2
31Little CrowHVS  
32Honorary Buoux7c **4
336667c **2
34Beast It!7b 1
35The Beesting8a **1
36Pat-trickE4 6b *1
37The Beeston Bomber8a+ ***1
38Lynx Wall *S 5
39Throwley Ridge Grooves *S 4
40Skylight Groove *HS 5
41White Room *HVS 4c **1
42Trill *E4 6a 1
43Jerry Hat-trick *E3 5c 2
44Patience Direct - Beauty *E2 5c 5
45The Beasty Boys *E3 6a *3
46Skylight Flake *HS 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Peregrines nesting at the stance of patience this year. Best avoid the far left of the crag til they've gone
sgl0jd ? - 20/Jul/11

Lovely location - very picturesque and only a 10 minutes or less approach. Rock very solid. The farm below is a bit of a dump and we had the silence ruined for a couple of hours by farmer palmers generator. Still - highly recommended if only to avoid the crowds.
Julian Lane ? - 26/Apr/10

If river is dry and from before the farm, rather than fully crossing the river, the best approach is to walk down the river bed and join path striking up to crag. Not mentioned in the description, The Thorn is obviously one of the crag classics. A 50m ab from the holly tree gets you to 'base camp'. Grading is on the friendly side - makes a change! Pocket Symphony doesn't stand out as being higher quality than the rest of the trio starting and finishing from the same spot - they're all good. Agree that the approach to the RHS is heinous, even with the fixed ropes - am told there have been fatalities. Possible to avoid by moving R-wards from Pock. Symph belay to gain Black Grub start - scary horiz traverse (roped), or safe pendule.
TonyM - 21/Sep/05

Right hand side is marred by the scramble to get to it - don't take the Rockfax warning lightly. E1 4a business. Put me off going anywhere near there to do the routes.
Fiend - 19/Aug/04