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Moat Buttress (Water-cum-Jolly) Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 44 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces N
Steep fingery routes on reasonable qaulity rock up to 20m high. An equal balance of sport and traditional routes. The sport routes are in the best condition and most lie within the 7a to 7b range. Best trad route is Sheerwater (HVS 4c, 5b). Best sport routes are Moat Madness and Another Moatside Attraction (both 7a+) and Moaterhead (7b). Nearby Crunch Buttress contains short crimpy sport routes from 7b to 8b.
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak Lime Extra MiniGuide (2004), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)
Climbs at this crag
Limited parking next to Cressbrook Mill at SK 174727 from where a path leads to the left of the lake and steps. From top of steps head right along a sheep track. Moat Buttress LH is below and left after 200m. For the RH buttress continue until you appear above a railway cutting. Head back down and right for approx 150m.
Six routes (in the centre) requiring wading or a boat to access!
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