Climbs 16
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features


Bolt Tail offers schist climbing in a location which is particularly beautiful on a sunny day. Big seas should be avoided and a visit must be carefully timed to the tide. Protecting schist takes skill and perseverance but most of the routes can be made reasonably safe. Tricams, hexes and skinny slings are useful additions to a standard rack. The rock can be snappy but with sensible hold selection this shouldn't be a problem.


Approach notes

From Malborough follow signs to Hope Cove. Either follow the coast path W, or coasteer in the same direction (Grade III with a singulary taxing patch of V) to a semi-island/reef called "The Bury Stone". The descent lies down a gully just S of some large boulders between the stone and the cliff.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bury Stone Cliff
2CrystallineVS 4c
3CrankeyE2 5c **
4PiranhaE2 5b *
5Triple BladeE1 5b
6FluffyHS 4b **
7ButchE2 5c *
8SlimE2 5b *
9HoolieVS 4c *
10GroovyHS 4b
11StraightE1 5a *
12Flaked Out
VS 4c *
14The Great EscapeS 4a
 Drakes Cliff
16PrivateerE4 5c **
17El DracoE5 6a ***
 China Buttress
19Old Dogs
VS 4c

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