Bolt Tail

Climbs 16 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features


Bolt Tail offers schist climbing in a location which is particularly beautiful on a sunny day. Big seas should be avoided and a visit must be carefully timed to the tide. Protecting schist takes skill and perseverance but most of the routes can be made reasonably safe. Tricams, hexes and skinny slings are useful additions to a standard rack. The rock can be snappy but with sensible hold selection this shouldn't be a problem.


Approach notes
From Malborough follow signs to Hope Cove. Either follow the coast path W, or coasteer in the same direction (Grade III with a singulary taxing patch of V) to a semi-island/reef called "The Bury Stone". The descent lies down a gully just S of some large boulders between the stone and the cliff.

Access notes


Navigate to Marlborough S of Kingsbridge on the A 381 and from here follow signs to Hope Cove. Park up at Inner Hope (expensive £4 day but some free roadside options). Walk west along the coast-path to a semi island/reef called the Bury Stone.


Tidal Considerations 2 hours either side of low tide or 3 hours if dead calm (check surf conditions and avoid when there is more than 3ft).


South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2CrystallineVS 4c 2
3CrankeyE2 5c **2
4PiranhaE2 5b *3
5Triple BladeE1 5b 1
6FluffyHS 4b **2
7ButchE2 5c *2
8SlimE2 5b *3
9HoolieVS 4c *1
10GroovyHS 4b 1
11StraightE1 5a *2
12Flaked OutVS 4c *3
13HelterVD 1
14The Great EscapeS 4a 1
16PrivateerE4 5c ** 
17El DracoE5 6a *** 
19Old DogsVS 4c  
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