St Anchorites Rock

Climbs 5 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 65m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
The rock is a fine grained igneous intrusion of dolerite which has been quarried on it's north side and left to nature.

The first two climbs face north and can be accessed by abseiling from the top of the crag or by ascending a crevice at the east end and then descending rightwards to the quarry floor. The north face is sometimes ivy clad but it is easily removed (clean 2015).

The third climb is on the broken south face.

Micro wires and cams are very useful.

Approach notes
Park up on the coast road 3km E of Noss Mayo/Newton Ferrers at a footpath giving access to the coastpath. Follow this E for 1km to the rock which is an obvious landmark.

The bouldering lies 400m WSW of St Anchorites on a rocky outcrop on a ridge (SX 588 471). Start descending the west side of the ridge on a large track and then traverse the cliff edge eastward before heading back uphill to the landward block.

Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH FACE  
2Don't Mess with TessE2 5b 1
3Far from the Madding CrowdHVS 4c *1
 SOUTH FACE  
5Jude the ObscureHVS 5a 1
 BOULDER AT SX 588 471  
7Hermit AreteV7 6c * 
8Hermit Arete Sit StartV8 6c ** 
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