Climbs 39
Rocktype Slate

Faces W

Morwell Rocks Crags © Kafoozalem

Crag features

There is no need to pay £5. Access is sensitive so keep a low profile. Once you have reached your chosen crag you are unlikely to be disturbed except for Weir Buttress. Although the crag won't be to everyone's taste there are a number of good climbs here and many of them are in superb situations. It received a unnecessarily negative and bilious write up in Nick White's guidebook considering some of the other crags described.

Obviously such a dense woodland is at risk of fire, so no naked flames please!

2016 Recommended restored routes ... Cold Grief, Maybe Tomorrow, Thor, Damaged Goods. These are quite easy to reach. Ultramontane takes a bit more effort to reach but it is a classic, now upgraded to E1. Hopefully more coming soon.
Not recently climbed but look ok-  Perfecto, Spinal Column, Quiet River

Approach notes


1 The northern crags are reached by a stealth mission via the track which starts at the lodge 400m from Gunnislake New Bridge. Ignore the initial no parking sign and continue to a small parking area and information board. This approach involves brazenly ignoring Private signs.

2 A top-down approach from the track on the valley rim is best for the southern cluster of crags. This can be accessed from the Lodge parking via a legal path up to Chimney Rock. Alternatively (better) park on the roadside 500m from Morwellham's excessive parking charges and follow the cycle track which starts here (GR 448 703). This leads directly (with twists and turns) to the viewpoint at the top of C Buttress. From here steep wooded slopes to the left (looking out) can be descended to reach the the other crags.


Access Advice

The crags are on private property but there is no outright ban on climbing and with sensitivity it is possible to climb here without attracting attention. See above for more info.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gunnislake Buttress 
2CerebusVD 2
3Quickening Pulse
HVS 4c  
4ThorVS 4c 2
5Damaged GoodsHVS 5a 1
6Odin Your Tea's Ready
HVS 4c  
 Upper Cliff 
8Haunted PeopleHVS 5a 1
 Soupcon Ridge 
10SoupçonVD 2
11Overhanging CrackS  
 Chimney Rock 
13Chimney Rock
 Weir Buttress 
15Limping HomeVS  
16Vacancy at the VaticanHVS 4c *1
17Palace of SkullsE3 5b  
18Love is like AnthraxVS  
 Main Buttress 
21Spinal columnS 4a *1
 Summit Buttress (Pleasure Rock) 
23Fern Chimney
24The Cleaver
 Blasted Buttress 
26Good Day SunshineE1 5b  
27PerfectoVS 4b 1
28Seasons in the sunVS 4b  
29Lazing on a Sunny AfternoonHVS 5a  
30Sunshine SupermanE2 5c  
 Middle Buttress 
32Continuation Wall
33Pine Top
34Impertinent Robin
VS 4b  
 A Buttress 
36Jollity FarmHVS 5a  
37Aerial BalletE2 5b *1
38Monkey PuzzleVS 4b  
39Daylight SavingHVS 4c  
 B Buttress 
41Quiet River
VS 4c  
42The EntertainerE1 5b  
 C Buttress 
44Cold GriefE1 5b **2
45Maybe TomorrowHVS 5a 1
46Points of ViewE2 5b 1
47Cream EggHVS 5a  
 River Buttress 
49Divine Inspiration
VS 4c  
S 1
51UltramontaneE1 5a 1
52Thought ProcessHVS 5a  

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