"Dartmoor's answer to Joshua Tree is a superb and rather high boulder" (Javu). A handful of problems in a peaceful location, well worth a visit especially if combined with a trip to Manaton. Climbs mostly in the V0-V2 range. See www.javu.co.uk for full guide.
Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km). Carry straight over here (also signed Lustleigh), and continue along this road until a left turn is signed Lusteigh.
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
|1||Problem: 1 (Javu)||V0+ 5c||2|
|2||Problem: 2 (Javu)||V2 6a||1|
|3||Problem: 3 (Javu)||V3 6a|
|4||Problem: 4 (Javu)||V0 5b||1|
|5||Problem: 5 (Javu)||V0 5b||3|
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|Wonderful setting, with good routes. Starting to get really overgrown. The top out of Desire looks impossible to the advances of a nearby tree. The top out p4 is scary, due to the thick level of moss on the rock. Needs a clean!!!|
tomwheeler - 23/May/11
|Really nice boulder in an amazing setting, although the top outs are a bit overgrown so you might want to do some surgical brushing of the key holds. The problems are also a tad high on the main face!
The short walk-in is also very nice through the forest and along a little river and over a boulder bridge.
francois - 21/Apr/10