Climbs 23
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces E

Moving round the crux © BelayBunney

Crag features

Trad routes info | DWS routes info

A friendly E to NE facing wall which is well worth a visit, both for the mini-trad routes and/or the DWS.  It has some excellent quality limestone. It is largely non-tidal, but the right hand trad routes need a lower tide to access.  It is best to arrive between 2 hours either side of high tide for the DWS.  It is best avoided if a heavy swell is running.  From left to right, the main face comprises an overhung bay below a prow, a large central groove and a cave at the right hand end. The routes are described from left to right.  For the trad routes it is advisable to pre-place a length of static rope down to the top of the rock face to belay on.  The rope can then be used to either abseil to the base again or to scramble out.   

Approach notes

If approaching from Babbacombe, drive past The Range and then take the next turning on the L for Ansteys Cove. Follow this road a short distance to the Pay and Display Car Park on the R. Either park here or, to save money, continue along the lane and turn right to reach some on-street parking near Kent's Cavern.  From the P&D car park area, follow the 'Bishop's Walk' coastal footpath eastwards, signposted to Hope's Nose. 260 m past a prominent concrete shelter a track branches off leftwards (not to be mistaken with another track with wooden steps just before). Follow the path down to the cliff top, bear right around the low headland and continue south until an obvious steep descent path to the foreshore is reached, complete with in-situ string. Alternatively follow the first 2300ft of Morning Town Ride!

Early September, 2015: the final bit of path from the headland itself to the down climb was very overgrown. Long trousers (or even better, a pair of garden shears) advisable.
andy_pemberton - 07/Sep/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Dolerite Wall DWS 
2Triumph Dolerite6b *1
3Dolerite Sprint6c+ **1
 South End DWS 
5The Mouthbreather6c *1
 Central area trad. 
7Suspect DevicesE2 5c 1
8Suspect Devices - Variation finishE1 5c 1
9Antiques RoadshowS 4a *1
10See Emily PlayHVS 5a *3
11Lucy LasticE1 5b 1
12Big Red Rock EaterVS 4b 1
13Sing Harpy
-
E2 5b 2
14GormlessE3 5c 1
15Homo brittanicusE3 c **1
16Help the AgedE2 5b 1
17Spacehopper
-
E2 5c *2
18Zit Alors
-
E2 5c 2
 North end DWS 
20Variation: I Sight6c  
21Blind Lead the Blind7a+ * 
22Bazuka6a+ **14
23Veruca7a ***2
24Solid EmulsionXS 5c 1
25Squished in6a 1
265a Right aretenone 5a 1
27Morning Town RideHVS 5b 5

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