Climbs 20
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces E

Moving round the crux © BelayBunney

Crag features

Trad routes info | DWS routes info

A very friendly E to NE facing wall which, although short, has some of the best quality rock in Torbay (none of the routes required any cleaning). Virtually non-tidal (although 2 hours either side of high tide is recommended for the Deep Water Solos), but best avoided if a heavy swell is running, the main features are an overhung bay below a prow, a large central groove and a cave at the right hand end. The routes are described from right to left. Note: it is advisable to pre-place a rope to tree belays set well back.

Approach notes

If approaching from Babbacombe drive past the DIY centre car park then take the next turning on the L (passing big hotel on corner). Follow this road a short distance to a Pay and Display Car Park on the R. Park here then follow the Hope's Nose (the headland to the S of Anstey's Cove) path. 260 yards past prominent concrete shelter a track branches off Lwards (not to be mistaken with another track with wooden steps just before). Follow the path down to the cliff top and continue S until an obvious steep descent path is reached, complete with in-situ string. Alternatively follow the first 2300ft of Morning Town Ride!"

Early September, 2015: the final bit of path from the headland itself to the down climb was very overgrown. Long trousers (or even better, a pair of garden shears) advisable.
andy_pemberton - 07/Sep/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Bazuka6a+ **9
2Morning Town RideHVS 5b 5
3Veruca7a ***2
4See Emily Play
HVS 5a *2
E2 5c *1
6Sing Harpy
E2 5b 1
7Zit Alors
E2 5c 1
8Blind Lead the Blind *7a+ * 
9Variation: I Sight *6c  
10Solid Emulsion *XS 5c 1
115a Right arete *none 5a 1
12Suspect Devices *E2 5c  
13Suspect Devices - Variation finish *E1 5c  
14Antiques Roadshow *S 4a * 
15Lucy Lastic *E1 5b  
16Big Red Rock Eater *VS 4b  
17Homo brittanicus *E3 c ** 
18Help the Aged *E2 5b  
19Gormless *E3 5c  
20Squished in *6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer francois