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Central Buttress (Water-cum-Jolly) Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 60 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 255m a.s.l – Faces NW
One of the last great bastions of high grade traditional limestone climbing giving routes up to 36m long at mainly E2 and above on generally good quality limestone. Best suited to hot summers or sunny evenings, seldom busy. Some of the insitu pegs/slings deserve respect (replacing!). The classics are La Chute (E5 6b - but check the pegs!), Sox (E5 6a), Knuckle Knocker (E2 5c), The Alien (E4 6b), That'l Do Nicely (E5 6b), Behemoth (E5 6b, 6b), St Paul (E2 5c) and White Fright (E6 6b).
Peak Limestone (2012), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Wye Valley (1999),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)
Climbs at this crag
Take Wellies! From Miller's Dale to the west. Park at the southern end of Tideswell Dale (SK 155732) and head downstream through Litton (Bus Service and cafe!). The crag starts approx. 300m past the mill on the right-hand side of the valley (10 min). A mossy wier provides the easiest approach.
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