Alpamayo Cordillera Blanca, PERU
Climbs 3 – Rocktype Ice – Altitude 5844m a.s.l – Faces ?
Alpamayo was described as "the most beautiful mountain in the world," and doesn't disapoint. It has a distinctive face that has many snow fluting running to the summit ridge. The popular route was the Ferrari Route, but the French Direct, going direct to the summit, is now preferred as it has less danger from seracs.
Get to the head of the valley from Huaraz by taxi (expensive,) or take buses as close as you can go and take a taxi the remainder of the way (cheaper.) Donkeys and porters can be arrangesd here if required for the 1 long, or two slow days (better for acclimatising,) to the base camp, which has a long drop toilet, shop for basics (and beer!) where tents and bags can be left while at higher camps. Morraine camp is about 2 hours up from base camp and just before the glacier (good for acclimatising.) To get to high camp, head up the glacier and climb a gully just left of a rock buttress to the breathtaking view of the mountain from the col. Camp just over the col.
Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca (2009)
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