Sass de Rocia is an out of the way place for climbers with a large number of bolted routes. However there are only a couple at alpine grade V, a couple at grade VI, with the rest at grade VII and above! A good way to get to know the area is to run around the lovely Via Ferrata to the summit described below.
There are three main monoliths, some sixty feet high and several others scattered stones. A 'stone city' called 'the monoliths Ronch'.
The largest of the Sass de Rocia, almost two hundred meters long and one hundred wide, overhangs on all sides. It is 'split in half by a gap of just a few meters, in the bowels of which climbs a short, but not trivial, Via Ferrata safety to the summit with a comfy bivouac hut located at the very top!
Sass de Murada is a kind of huge wing that overlooks the valley of Cordevole in wonderful panoramic position. The name reminds us that the summit is the remains of a medieval watchtower, from which dwellers could communicate optical signals with the nearby Andraz Castle and Sommariva Alleghe Agordino.
Sass de la Gusela (needle) is a very elegant and slender spire that stands out of dense forest for about fifty meters.
In addition there are numerous boulders scattered, many of which are suitable for bouldering.
Between the south face of the Sass de la Murada and all around the Sass de Rocia are bolted routes of almost all leve of higher difficulty. The climbing takes place on very smooth rock, given the type of rock; the Marmolada Limestone, is very water soluble.
Access is from the Pieve to Caprile road, just south of Digonera. Drive up a narrow, windy road to Laste, where the road becomes even narrower, and on to Val, where a (signposted) left turn takes you up to Ronch. Despite the narrowness of the road, there is a good parking area where it ends.
Approach can be made from the parking spot following a well-marked grassy track to Sass de Rocia, or from a path (rather inconspicuously sighposted!) which heads uphill from just below the last house, about 200m down the approach road. The upper path takes you towards the north of Sass de Rocia and the climbing.
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 (2002)
|SASS DE ROCIA (MAIN TOWER)|
|2||Via attraverso le pesche||6a+ *||2|
|SASS DE MURADA|
|SASS DE LA GUSELA (NEEDLE)|
|THE MONOLITHS RONCH (BOULDERING)|
|8||Sass de Rocia (VF)||VF1A||11|
|MISCELLANEOUS/UNCHECKED OR INCORRECT ENTRIES|
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