Some say dry tooling is the devil's work... © Chris Prescott
Bolt Fund: http://foolswithtools.co.uk/bolt-fund/ - Please consider a donation if you use Newtyle. The nature of the rock and conditions mean the bolts need replaced regularly.
Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.
In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D13, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.
Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D13.
Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.
Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.
The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.
Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.
Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.
Please park with consideration to local residents.
Park either by the start of the private road, or in the open ground up the rough track.
|Topo here: https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Newtyle_Quarry|
ERU - 10/Nov/14