Climbs 41
Rocktype Slate

Some say dry tooling is the devil's work... © Chris Prescott

Crag features

Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.

In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D13, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.

Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D13.

Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.
Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.
The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.
Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.

Approach notes

Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.

Please park with consideration to local residents.

Park either by the start of the private road, or in the open ground up the rough track.

Topo here: https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Newtyle_Quarry
ERU - 10/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Doorjamb Slab 
2Give Me Sunshine6c+ 1
3Spandau BalletE2 5c **22
4Pulliscious
-
M6 63
5Roofiliscious
-
M5 **164
6GroovilisciousM4 222
7BonzaiM4 *198
8Beginers slabM3 8
 Happy Hooker Wall 
10A Mind of MetalM7 23
11Insane in the MembraneM8 22
12Happy HookerM7 76
13Urban TurbanM7 16
14Va Va Voom
-
M8 38
15The StingM8 1
 Pantile Slab 
17Pentile Headlap
-
E2 5b * 
 The Outhouse Slab 
19Flashdance
-
E3 6a  
 The Main Slab 
21Just Gentleman
-
E3 5c  
22Pulse
-
E2 5b * 
23Marguerita
-
E1 5a  
24Soft Shoe Shuffle
-
E1 5a *1
25Raspberries
-
E3 5b ** 
26Atomic
-
E3 5c * 
27Slateford Road
-
E2 5b ** 
28Compulsive Gambler
-
E5 6a *** 
29Counting Out Time
-
E3 5c **3
30The Fringe
-
E4 6a  
 The Tube 
32Gone in 60 SecondsE7 6c  
33Hurley Burley
-
8b 4
34Training for SomethingM12 2
35Fast and FuriousM10 57
36Too Fast Too FuriousM11 4
37DTS SpiritM12 ***5
38Torch LiteM11 **18
39The Big Bad WolfM12 ***3
40F.C.U.K.M12+ ***3
41Torch Lite TooM11+ **4
42FrankensteinM13 ***2
43Fly You Fools!M6 **4
 Upper Tier 
45Hammerhead and the QuarrymanM8 1
46el Ringo6a+ *2
47Dance into the Groove6b+ **1
48Like a Virgin6c * 

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