Newtyle Quarry

Climbs 41 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.

In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D12, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.

Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D12.

Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.

Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.

The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.

Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.

Access notes
Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.

Please park with consideration to local residents.

Park either by the start of the private road, or in the open ground up the rough track.

Guidebooks
Highland Outcrops (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DOORJAMB SLAB  
2F6c+6c+ 1
3Spandau BalletE2 5c **19
4PullisciousM6 55
5RoofilisciousM5 **140
6GroovilisciousM4 189
7BonzaiM4 *165
8Beginers slabM3 2
 HAPPY HOOKER WALL  
10A Mind of MetalM7 18
11Insane in the MembraneM8 22
12Happy HookerM7 63
13Urban TurbanM7 13
14Va Va VoomM8 31
15The StingM8 1
 PANTILE SLAB  
17Pentile HeadlapE2 5b * 
 THE OUTHOUSE SLAB  
19FlashdanceE3 6a  
 THE MAIN SLAB  
21Just GentlemanE3 5c  
22PulseE2 5b * 
23MargueritaE1 5a  
24Soft Shoe ShuffleE1 5a * 
25RaspberriesE3 5b ** 
26AtomicE3 5c * 
27Slateford RoadE2 5b ** 
28Compulsive GamblerE5 6a *** 
29Counting Out TimeE3 5c **3
30The FringeE4 6a  
 THE TUBE  
32Gone in 60 SecondsE7 6c  
33Hurley Burley8b 4
34Training for SomethingM12 2
35Fast and FuriousM10 47
36Too Fast Too FuriousM11 4
37DTS SpiritM12 ***5
38Torch LiteM11 **10
39The Big Bad WolfM12 ***3
40F.C.U.K.M12+ ***3
41Torch Lite TooM11+ **2
42FrankensteinM13 ***2
43Fly You Fools!M6 ** 
 UPPER TIER  
45Hammerhead and the QuarrymanM8 1
46el Ringo6a+ *2
47Dance into the Groove6b+ **1
48Like a Virgin6c * 
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Topo here: https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Newtyle_Quarry
ERU - 10/Nov/14