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These details were last updated on 22/May/2010

Newtyle Quarry

Perthshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.

In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D12, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.

Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D12.

Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.

Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.

The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.

Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
Sun
6 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
24 kph

4.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
16 kph

2.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Highland Outcrops (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 DOORJAMB SLAB  
2F6c+6c+ 1
3Spandau BalletE2 5c **18
4PullisciousM6 46
5RoofilisciousM5 **126
6GroovilisciousM4 171
7BonzaiM4 *150
 HAPPY HOOKER WALL  
9A Mind of MetalM7 15
10Insane in the MembraneM8 22
11Happy HookerM7 57
12Urban TurbanM7 12
13Va Va VoomM8 28
14The StingM8 1
 PANTILE SLAB  
16Pentile HeadlapE2 5b * 
 THE OUTHOUSE SLAB  
18FlashdanceE3 6a  
 THE MAIN SLAB  
20Just GentlemanE3 5c  
21PulseE2 5b * 
22MargueritaE1 5a  
23Soft Shoe ShuffleE1 5a * 
24RaspberriesE3 5b ** 
 Climb nameGradex
25AtomicE3 5c * 
26Slateford RoadE2 5b ** 
27Compulsive GamblerE5 6a *** 
28Counting Out TimeE3 5c **3
29The FringeE4 6a  
 THE TUBE  
31Gone in 60 SecondsE7 6c  
32Hurley Burley8b 4
33Training for SomethingM12 2
34Fast and FuriousM10 44
35Too Fast Too FuriousM11 4
36DTS SpiritM12 ***5
37Torch LiteM11 **9
38The Big Bad WolfM12 ***3
39F.C.U.K.M12+ ***2
 UPPER TIER  
41Hammerhead and the QuarrymanM8 1
42el Ringo6a+ *2
43Dance into the Groove6b+ **1
44Like a Virgin6c * 
45FrankensteinM13 ***1
46Torch Lite Too *M11+ **2
47Beginers slab *M3 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.

Please park with consideration to local residents.

Park either by the start of the private road, or in the open ground up the rough track.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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