Newtyle Quarry

Climbs 41 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.

In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D12, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.

Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D12.

Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.

Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.

The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.

Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.

Access notes
Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.

Please park with consideration to local residents.

Park either by the start of the private road, or in the open ground up the rough track.

Highland Outcrops (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2F6c+6c+ 1
3Spandau BalletE2 5c **19
4PullisciousM6 55
5RoofilisciousM5 **140
6GroovilisciousM4 189
7BonzaiM4 *165
9A Mind of MetalM7 18
10Insane in the MembraneM8 22
11Happy HookerM7 63
12Urban TurbanM7 13
13Va Va VoomM8 31
14The StingM8 1
16Pentile HeadlapE2 5b * 
18FlashdanceE3 6a  
20Just GentlemanE3 5c  
21PulseE2 5b * 
22MargueritaE1 5a  
23Soft Shoe ShuffleE1 5a * 
24RaspberriesE3 5b ** 
25AtomicE3 5c * 
26Slateford RoadE2 5b ** 
27Compulsive GamblerE5 6a *** 
28Counting Out TimeE3 5c **3
29The FringeE4 6a  
31Gone in 60 SecondsE7 6c  
32Hurley Burley8b 4
33Training for SomethingM12 2
34Fast and FuriousM10 46
35Too Fast Too FuriousM11 4
36DTS SpiritM12 ***5
37Torch LiteM11 **10
38The Big Bad WolfM12 ***3
39F.C.U.K.M12+ ***3
41Hammerhead and the QuarrymanM8 1
42el Ringo6a+ *2
43Dance into the Groove6b+ **1
44Like a Virgin6c * 
45FrankensteinM13 ***2
46Torch Lite TooM11+ **2
47Beginers slabM3 2
48Fly You Fools! *M6 ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jonskippy

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ERU - 10/Nov/14