Balnacoul Castle Boulders

Climbs 27 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 210m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
These are the boulders you can see on the scree slope and field below Balnacoul Castle on the east facing side of Glen Lednock as you drive towards the head of the glen and the dam.

There are several lines here awaiting suitors most noticably on the Sheiling boulder where the left side of the big roof provides a hard challenge with a crap landing - the moves were worked by Watson and Betts but no-one has completed the problem, yet ... go forth, explore and crush.

CAUTION: Note that some of the landings are poor and some are worse and despite some moderate grades are quite serious highball undertakings and should be treated as such. The odd levelled platform has been discretely created to make what was diabiolical now merely spicey, spotters are highly reccomended for some problems! The inexperienced should take great care.

The Wild West and Sheiling boulders are at the base of the large scree slope, above and right of the Sheiling boulder is the Cellar Wall boulder and the Drill Bit boulder on the back of which is the Impossible Roof. 80 yards uphill of the Cellar Wall lies Ski Jump and 25 yards left (facing the crag)is Wendys and Awesome Wall. Returning to the base of the scree slope further round under the left hand side of the crag lies the Powerline boulder lying in the field next to the power line pole and on the slope above lies the large and obvious Civil Engineering boulder (with platformed landings on the right and left sides).

The recorded development so far is the work of a team of geriatric, overweight, ex-pat sassenachs, Mark Powell and Howard Tingle in 2010, and 2 far more talented natives John Watson and Richie Betts added the Sheiling problems also in 2010.

Approach notes
UPDATE: The lowest gate in the valley is currently padlocked by the landowner due to damage along the dam shoreline. If the gate is open follow the below if not park VERY considerately so as not to obstruct any gates and wander up the glen to the fork in the road.

Park as for the approach to Balnacoul Castle crag - follow the Glen Lednock approach to the last fork in the road (just before the road starts to run uphill past the small the wood with the stream), take the left turn (old private road sign) park carefully and sympathetically before the bridge over the river. Go over the river, turn left into the filed and follow the river downstream, go up and over the shoulder and down to the boulders.

The top of the shoulder on the approach provides an excellent view of all the current boulders and its worth getting your bearings here before ferreting about the large scree field. See topo photos

Highland Outcrops (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Cheyennef4 1
3Billy The Kidf3+ 1
4Pat Garrettf5+ 1
5General Custerf3+ *1
6Sitting Bullf6B *1
8Crack and Voidf3 *1
9Glass Shieling Projectf7B+  
10Shieling Weef6A  
12Chrome Molybdenumf6C *1
14Waiting for John Cookef6A+ 1
15Richy Williams Where Are You?f6B *1
17Sideshowf4+ 1
18Problem to be Named 2f5 **1
20Awesome Groove Projectf6C+  
21Awesome Wall Projectf6C+  
23Wendys Aretef4  
24Wendy Free Zonef5+ *1
25Descent Routef2+ 1
26Wussy Aretef4 1
27Problem to be Namedf3+  
29Hertzf5 1
30Watts the problem?f6A+ 1
31Induced Currentsf5+ 1
32High Voltagef6B+ *1
34Duplof3 1
35Sticklebricksf3 1
36Flakes of Trepidationf6A+ *1
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