UKC

Climbs 113
Rocktype Artificial
Altitude 32m a.s.l
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The route is under the slab © jimecallaw

Crag features

There are nine concrete boulders in all, with hundreds of problems of slab, vertical and overhanging nature. There are a great range of problems ideal for beginners, and some of the boulders are low enough that fear of heights can be removed entirely! The landings are shingle, which is safe enough for the easier climbs but still worth bringing a boulder mat and spotter to attempt the higher and harder problems. The taller boulders have threads at the top for setting up a top rope if required.

The first boulder (The Mushroom) is found when entering the boulder field from the Sailing Centre car park. If you've come from the golf course end you'll see the smaller boulders first.

The first route on each boulder should be fairly obvious and described well in terms of position. The routes then follow round clockwise for every boulder, so once you've located the first route you should be able to find the rest! There's an official guide at the link below, and some of the routes here are given their official route number in brackets after the climb name.

Good topo here.

 

 

Approach notes

Access is a short walk from Fairlop underground station (central line). Walk along the main road past the entrance for the golf club, keep going until you reach the second entrance, the boulders are immediately on your right as you enter. Park as for walking just on the left.

Went in the weekend and it was fenced off (Coronavirus restrictions). Hopefully you lot see this before rushing out and getting disappointed. Couldn't find any sign of when it's coming back. Looked like some good problems for when it is open though.
CaptainSkrull - 22/Jun/20
Feb '15 Getting mossy in a lot of the cracks, especially on the Prominent Prow and Arches. Took a scrubbing brush to a couple of routes but it needs some proper gardening to get it all crispy fresh again.
edmundro - 29/Mar/15
Thanks for the feedback, yes it would be really good to make things a bit more logical. I began work on a new official guide which would be a bit more comprehensive and cover most of the new routes, but unfortunately I'm now living much further away and can't be sure when I'll have a chance even to go and confirm the grades which are waiting. If anyone is interested in lending a hand toward this project please get in touch. Otherwise I will do my best to get something done as soon as possible, as I appreciate it will really help those visiting the crag.
Radical-G - 13/May/12
Would be helpful to add all of the official guide problems (or add the numbers in brackets as you have started to do) and to have more description on each climb about where it is situated. Appreciate that most of this was done before the official guide and have moderated crags myself so know it is a lot of work. Just a bit confusing at present IMO.
TRNovice - 13/May/12
More details PDF mini guide and other useful info can be found at: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/fairlop_waters.htm
Steve Crowe - 22/Jun/11
fairlop is a decent local place just to get outside and enjoy. there are loads of routes and fun challenges. the only downside is that the boulders surface is super rough concrete. excellant for smearing but kills your hands quick!
mrmoe17 - 25/May/11
Cheers for the comments. Have updated the boulder names so they have the official and UKC names. I would recommend the official guide to anyone who is a relative beginner and has not climbed at Fairlop much, the UKC guide here serves to cover a lot more in the intermediate grades and records many climbs which are not listed on the official guide.
Radical-G - 17/Apr/11
Just come across Fairlop boulders & the official guide does not seem to match what is on UKC. Makes it difficult to work out what you are actually bouldering. Helpful if there was a topo of the UKC listed climbs. I would have thought UKC would stick to the official names for each boulder.
jaxxman - 15/Apr/11
Definitely a good idea, I will try to find a good way of doing this. While a lot more routes are included here, being able to cross reference them with the visual guide would be very helpful and make finding the routes a lot easier.
Radical-G - 09/Nov/10
Have been here a few times with my family, it's great as they can mess about on the boulders while I do specific routes. There is an official guide to the boulders though, which doesn't follow the same routes as the guide here, maybe they should be aligned?
tom_greenwich - 27/Oct/10
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