Climbs 40
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

Paper Clip Slab (2nd ascent) © Mark Davis

Crag features

A great trad quarry venue, known by the locals as Jackdaw Quarry, which, having languished in obscurity for years with only two routes from 1988, has now emerged as a significant crag with some thirty new routes up to 25m, many of star quality. Well worth a visit.

To visitors using the new CC Symonds Yat guidebook: the following three climbs are not yet equipped with lower-offs and should be avoided: THE PAST, NOSE JOB, DAVID VIRGO 1969. Other routes finish at abseil stations or reach substantial trees. Topping out is generally not a safe option. There is loose rock above the finishes of all climbs, and helmets are strongly recommended.

On entering the quarry, a huge, roughly circular area of slab will be seen on the left: The Great Slab, which is home to a dozen new routes. Right of the Great Slab is a tower containing a prominent corner crack (The Horned One), capped by an enormous projecting roof: The Horn. A vegetated runnel separates the right arete of the tower from another arete: these aretes are taken by the original two Martin Crocker routes: Round the Horn and Del Fuego. Next comes a very large tree which has crashed down from high above and currently means that you have to drop down to get to the next climbs.

Right again is a distinctive whaleback slab (Baran), which steepens and narrows as it rises to twin cracks in a recess; to the right of this slab is an arete (Ice Age), and to the right again an as yet unclimbed deep corner capped by a large roof. Some 50m further is a small face (Master Seth's Edge), and, right again, the distictive hanging slab of Paper Clip Slab.

A small slab, Old Staple Edge, lies on the hillside above the first part of the approach track, and contains the worthwhile In a Lonely Place and 2 other routes.

UPDATE: several twin-bolt abseil stations now installed (in Spring 2011). See comment below for details.

Approach notes

From Cinderford, drive south through Ruspidge. Shortly after leaving the village, at a long bend in the road, there are two grassy lay-bys on the right. Park here and walk back towards the village a short way; then take the good new track on the left (facing towards the village). Follow the track to its end (at a recently capped mine shaft enclosed by green fencing) and continue straight ahead on a small undulating path, passing above the factory buildings. Ignore a left fork in the path which rises to an isolated telegraph pole, and continue ahead a short way; then drop down to a trough which rises up and merges from the right, and leads down left into the quarry. This all takes 5-10 minutes from the car.

Had a day here last week. July might not be a good idea. Apart from Horned One, all routes are now somewhat or very vegetated. Great effort to clean this up, but I'd guess it needs the same effort every 2 years. Anyway, we did Quarry Effect (thought this would be excellent if clean), Paper Clip Slab (vicious gorse in the corner!) and Grendel's Mother. Wanted to do Baran, but the bottom slab is a carpet now.
edwardwoodward - 25/Jul/15
gutted to have arrived to see 'Barran' covered in moss and everything a bit damp and gloomy. Bone dry and a clean up and I'm sure this is as good as it all looks in the guide though.
Stanners - 16/Aug/14
Well, it looks like The Lost Treasure Of The Kingdom of Mercia is currently top of the leader board :)
Mark Davis - 12/Dec/13
A cracking little crag, good effort cleaning it up. From the photos it looks as though it is at its best during the winter, which is great as sandstone usually takes terrible seepage.
alan rosier - 08/Sep/13
Double bolt belays (with BMC consent) have been installed for routes on the main slab between 'Arthur Pod' and 'Tiffin Club' (exluding Back, Foot and Crack) as well as one at the top of 'The Future' and one at the top of 'Baran' that can also be used for 'Grendels Mother'. All other routes finish at adequate tree belays.
Mark Davis - 17/Sep/11
The routes are overhung by large amounts of veg, so as a result there is a lot of muck on the holds, in cracks. We did several one * routes and there was more loose rock than I'd hoped for. All the great photos seem to have been taken with a very wide angle lens which makes the crag seem much bigger than it is. Best temper your enthusiasm before arrival! Probably best enjoyed after a dry spell as some of the sandstone seems to absorb water and get softer.
Tim M - 19/Jun/11
Be careful on route 'Burnt Mound, VS 5a'. Just below the crux move the tree is acting as a spear, a fall onto this would be very serious. Climb 21 in the new CC Yat guide.
afrad - 22/May/11
Nice little crag. Be really very nice with a little more traffic to keep the brambles down! Certainly going to return.
Ander - 11/Oct/10
Really like this crag and can't wait to come back next Spring when everything should be in tip- top condition. If ever a crag waranted bolt belay stations at the top of the crag though it is certainly this one!
D Berry - 29/Aug/10
Update: The Future is now equipped with a lower-off.
bpmclimb - 27/Jul/10
Just a note for anyone who has just bought the new Symonds Yat guide: This newly developed quarry (formerly known as Ruspidge west quarry) has been developed over the past winter and early spring. Most of the routes finish at trees and/or lower offs. Several lower offs are not yet in place due to my accident yesterday: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=417624&v=1#x5941118 please do not attempt to climb routes: 'The Past', 'The Future', 'Nose Job' and 'David Virgo' lower offs for these will be put in ASAP. Summer vegetation is rampant down there since we cleaned and climbed the routes and some routes need a bit of re-gardening but most of the routes look pretty clean.
Mark Davis - 19/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Old Staple Edge 
2In a Lonely PlaceE3 6a *1
3Freeminers CrackS 4a  
4Speculation SlabHS 4a  
 Approach Path Problems 
6Outer CornerV0 1
7Stoney Crispy CornerV0 1
81 Shot WonderV0 1
 Main Crag 
10Moss TrespassE1 5b 5
11Arthur PodHVS 5b 8
12Staple DietE6 6b *4
13AbcessionE7 6c **1
14Fight ClubE5 6b *3
15Butch and SundanceE1 5b *35
16The Lost Treasure Of The Kingdom of MerciaHVS 5a *74
17Back, Foot and CrackVS 4c *66
18The Other BrothersHVS 5a 11
19The Quarry EffectE1 5c *58
20The Vanishing SpadeHS 4b 42
21Abdominal SlabE2 5c *24
22The Tiffin ClubHS 4a 40
23The PastVS 4b 4
24The FutureHVS 5a *18
25El ZorroE3 5c 3
26Drake PassageE2 5c *6
27The Horned OneE1 5b **34
28Round the HornE1 5c *3
29Del FuegoE1 5c 2
30BaranE2 5b *46
31Grendel's MotherE2 5c *8
32Burnt MoundVS 5a *30
33Ice AgeVS 4c *52
34And No Birds Do SingHVS 5a 19
35Finger Popping GoodHS 4b 4
36Finger Popping BadE2 5c 1
37Master Seth's EdgeHS 4b 16
38The Systematic Sexing up of Ruspidge WestHS 4a 12
39A Little ObscureHS 4b 9
40Paper Clip SlabE3 5c *26
41Nose JobE3 5c *3
42King of LightsHVS 4c 4
43David Virgo 1969VS 4c 1

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