A great trad quarry venue, known by the locals as Jackdaw Quarry, which, having languished in obscurity for years with only two routes from 1988, has now emerged as a significant crag with some thirty new routes up to 25m, many of star quality. Well worth a visit.
To visitors using the new CC Symonds Yat guidebook: the following three climbs are not yet equipped with lower-offs and should be avoided: THE PAST, NOSE JOB, DAVID VIRGO 1969. Other routes finish at abseil stations or reach substantial trees. Topping out is generally not a safe option. There is loose rock above the finishes of all climbs, and helmets are strongly recommended.
On entering the quarry, a huge, roughly circular area of slab will be seen on the left: The Great Slab, which is home to a dozen new routes. Right of the Great Slab is a tower containing a prominent corner crack (The Horned One), capped by an enormous projecting roof: The Horn. A vegetated runnel separates the right arete of the tower from another arete: these aretes are taken by the original two Martin Crocker routes: Round the Horn and Del Fuego. Next comes a very large tree which has crashed down from high above and currently means that you have to drop down to get to the next climbs.
Right again is a distinctive whaleback slab (Baran), which steepens and narrows as it rises to twin cracks in a recess; to the right of this slab is an arete (Ice Age), and to the right again an as yet unclimbed deep corner capped by a large roof. Some 50m further is a small face (Master Seth's Edge), and, right again, the distictive hanging slab of Paper Clip Slab.
A small slab, Old Staple Edge, lies on the hillside above the first part of the approach track, and contains the worthwhile In a Lonely Place and 2 other routes.
UPDATE: several twin-bolt abseil stations now installed (in Spring 2011). See comment below for details.
From Cinderford, drive south through Ruspidge. Shortly after leaving the village, at a long bend in the road, there are two grassy lay-bys on the right. Park here and walk back towards the village a short way; then take the good new track on the left (facing towards the village). Follow the track to its end (at a recently capped mine shaft enclosed by green fencing) and continue straight ahead on a small undulating path, passing above the factory buildings. Ignore a left fork in the path which rises to an isolated telegraph pole, and continue ahead a short way; then drop down to a trough which rises up and merges from the right, and leads down left into the quarry. This all takes 5-10 minutes from the car.
|1||Moss Trespass||E1 5b||4|
|2||Arthur Pod||HVS 5b||8|
|3||Staple Diet||E6 6b *||4|
|4||Abcession||E7 6c **||1|
|5||Fight Club||E5 6b *||3|
|6||Butch and Sundance||E1 5b *||31|
|7||The Lost Treasure Of The Kingdom of Mercia||HVS 5a *||71|
|8||Back, Foot and Crack||VS 4c *||63|
|9||The Other Brothers||HVS 5a||11|
|10||The Quarry Effect||E1 5c *||56|
|11||The Vanishing Spade||HS 4b||40|
|12||Abdominal Slab||E2 5c *||22|
|13||The Tiffin Club||HS 4a||36|
|14||The Past||VS 4b||4|
|15||The Future||HVS 5a *||17|
|16||El Zorro||E3 5c||3|
|17||Drake Passage||E2 5c *||5|
|18||The Horned One||E1 5b **||33|
|19||Round the Horn||E1 5c *||3|
|20||Del Fuego||E1 5c||2|
|21||Baran||E2 5b *||39|
|22||Grendel's Mother||E2 5c *||8|
|23||Burnt Mound||VS 5a *||27|
|24||Ice Age||VS 4c *||49|
|25||And No Birds Do Sing||HVS 5a||16|
|26||Finger Popping Good||HS 4b||2|
|27||Finger Popping Bad||E2 5c||1|
|28||Master Seth's Edge||HS 4b||14|
|29||The Systematic Sexing up of Ruspidge West||HS 4a||11|
|30||A Little Obscure||HS 4b||7|
|31||Paper Clip Slab||E3 5c *||25|
|32||Nose Job||E3 5c *||3|
|33||King of Lights||HVS 4c||4|
|34||David Virgo 1969||VS 4c||1|
|35||In a Lonely Place||E3 6a *||1|
|36||Freeminers Crack||S 4a|
|37||Speculation Slab||HS 4a|
|38||Outer Corner *||V0||1|
|39||Stoney Crispy Corner *||V0||1|
|40||1 Shot Wonder *||V0||1|
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