Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge Slab Quarry)

Climbs 29 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 155m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Rock type is quarried limestone as any local will tell you, not Forest stone (=hard sandstone). Dave Jury

Bruce - I am no geologist, but the crag flakes, just like south wales sandstone. Limestone doesn't flake it crumbles, or comes off in chunks. And there isn't any other limestone nearby. All the houses along the tramway into the grag are made from sandstone. I can get a geologist opinion off Chris Shorrock, one of the South Wales guidebook writers if that helps, cheers Adrian Eggleton

Access notes
Approach from Ruspidge road by taking the last turning on the left before the twin pubs, Tramway road at a small converted chapel. Go along until parking bay on right.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June due to nesting birds. See the BMC access notes for more details.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Symonds Yat (2010), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Tango & TrashVD
2UnnamedMS
3Acid RainE1 5a
4Rain MakerE1 5b *
5Rain DanceE1 5b
6Ruth is Stranger than FrictionE1 5b
7Dust StormVS 4b
8The Rain in Spain Falls Mainly on the Plain...HVS 5b
9Rain MachineE2 5b
10Rain ShadowE1 5c *
11EczemaE2 5c *
12PhlebitisE1 5a
13Rain Drops Keep Falling on My HeadE2 5b *
14Thank you LauraVS 4b
15TrashE1 5a
16Thin AirE1 5b
17Garbage GrinderHVS 4c
18The BinVD
19Mikey's MatchVD 4a **
20No Use CryingS
21It's A Rock OutHD 4a
22RecycleHS
23WastedVD
24LandfillD
25Pony and TrapVD
26Death DiscoE3 5b
27We are all living beyond our meansHVS 4c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The 4th bolt on Rain Shadow is currently missing its hanger.
Tom F Harding - 01/Nov/14
Not Sandstone, defo Limestone, but not particularly solid, the bedding plane exfoliates like a Marl. The VS is great and deserves a star or two. the sports routes are absorbing too.
alan rosier - 08/Sep/13
Upper tier is a great. Nice shiny bolts. Well worth a visit for a couple of routes. "Ruth is Stranger than Friction" - 6a. "Rain Shadow" - 6b.
balloonbed - 16/Aug/10
didn't look much at the upper tier. Lower tear was dirty, crumbly and not the best afternoon's climbing :-)
puppythedog - 10/Jul/10
i was there today and all the bolts are new and shiny
Ffej - 27/Sep/09
Had a good day out yesterday with the boys & well worth a visit if you climb above VS. Nearly all the bolts are missing, only the stubs remain, except for the E1 Acid Rain where 3 bolts (no peg runner) are in place. Missing peg runner on Rain Maker as well!
BALD EAGLE - 14/Jul/08
Nice location and outlook (esp for a quarry!!) Climbing OK if you like delicate slabs with bolt stubs for protection and russian roulette holds
The Pylon King - 25/Sep/06
The hangers that are missing are the ones that are not in the original topo. Using the bolts that have hangers in place mean that there are some long runouts - but that is why the grades are mostly E1/E2!
BruceW - 07/Feb/06
Went here last Sunday for the first time and it's worth at least one visit for those who climb VS or above though the single VS seemed very low in the grade (plenty of wire placements). Apart from a couple of small crack climbs (VS and HVS) the climbing is all open slab on small holds and smears with plenty of bolts. Many hangars are missing though so make sure you bring some wires (to hang) as well. The starts and some of the smears are getting polished and worn. Good belays at the top - blocks and trees.
mikelaing - 05/Sep/05
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These details were last updated on 02/Nov/2014
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