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These details were last updated on 20/Nov/2011

Churston Cove

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 34 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
Not a great crag, but okay for people on holiday in the area and fancy abit of bouldering, or for a local training crag.

ALOT OF THE ROCK IS LOOSE SO TAKE EXTRA CARE ON PROBLEMS. MAINLY ON THE HIGHER PARTS.

Mainly made up of Limestone but there is some sandstone and on some of the climbs there is abit of Flowstone. Little bouldering area, with some easy problems with big jugs, through to hard fingery, techical and powerful problems.

Approach boulder. On the stated approach path to the right as your walking down is a rather blank looking face. Loose rock possibilities and loose rock on the most featured (looks crumbly too) bit, but the safe holds to use are usually calked up.

Overhanging Face is quite obvious of where about it is, with its obvious overhanging blank face which is the first of the "free climbable" walls. There is some hard climbing on the wall. Watch out for the loose rock up high before pulling hard on them, not sure the exact position but I remember worrying on the first ascent. A couple of mats and spotters would be sensible.

Just past the overhang you will see another flat and slightly overhanging face which is Main face here there are some good problems with a V0 to a V7. On the top left is loose rock and top middle may have loose rock. Never had holds fall, but dont commit to pulling on the higher holds without checking them out first.

The next sector is Tidel wave, which has some great problems to the right there is a flat wall which has some crystels on this is Thats the Spirit (see images). To get to rest of the problems at Tidel wave you have to scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. The problems here are really good and good for Endurance training. Some of the problems are Tidel but can be reached most of the time, just be careful that you dont get cut off by the tide. But around there is some really, really good problems that are a must to tick.

Back to the main side of the area is Mini Quarry which is simply just a mini quarry, it is situated quite high but is still quite easy to get to. It is visable from the approach in, look up towards the top of the bank and you will be able go see two cut out sections which have rock in them (look like mini quarries) the one on the right is Mini quarry. There is a path that leads to it, follow the main path up and walk acrooss the top. Here is some decent problems some are good for warm-ups and some very, very finger and very technical like Panic Attack. Some of the holds are loose, helmet may be advisable.

There are some obvious big slabs. SOLO's!

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
21 kph

8.2mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
31 kph

2.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
23 kph

1.5mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
18 kph

1.4mm rain
Sun
10 °C
22 kph
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Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 APPROACH  
2Paciencia Extensionf7B+ 2
3Compressf6B 2
4Paciencia Originalf6C+ 2
5Pacienciaf7B 7
6Paciencia Variatef7A+ 1
7Paciencia Variationf7B 2
8Fight Clubf7B+ 2
9Central Wallf5 1
10Left Aretef5+ 1
11Left Arete SDSf6A 1
12Misguided Youthf7A 1
13Indecisive Naturef7C+ 7a 3
14Creature's of Habitf8A 2
15Creatures of Habit Extensionf8A  
16Triple Trouble ProjectProject  
17One Last Timef7C 1
 OVERHANGING FACE  
19Heave' High Variation finishV3 6b **1
20SquidgeV3 6a **1
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN FACE  
22My First Traversef7A **1
23My First Traverse T+Bf7B 1
24Parallax in Mindf7A+ 1
25Eliminarf7B 1
26F.E.A.Rf6B 1
27Problem 25V5 6b 1
28Problem 24V5 6b 1
29Problem 26V5 6a **1
30Terminal Velocityf7C **1
 MINI QUARRY  
32Fizzy Strawberriesf2+ 6
33Panic AttackV3 6c **5
 TIDEL WAVE  
35Bring on the PainV3 ***3
36Bring on the Pain ExtensionV5 ***5
37The Wavef7B 6c **1
38The Wave Extensionf7B+ 6c **2
 BOULDERFIELD  
40The Longest Journeyf7B **1
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Access notes
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L and is signposted Churston cove. Park in this carpark and the follow the signs for Churston Cove on a 4 minute walk in.

Then the rocks are clear on the opposite side of the beach.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ellis Butler-Barker

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
It may have seemed a bit harsh all in all. But it seems you both have skirted around all the issues that myself and others have raised with several factors in this area. I did a Paciencia, and i honestly believe giving it 7a+ was very resonable, i would suggest most problems in the area are atleast 4 font grades over what they should be. It is indeed taking the piss to name something Misguided Youth, at that is the entire point. Climbing is an expression, There is mine.
El3ctroFuzz - 05/Aug/12

I think a few problems here may be slightly overgraded but if you feel that way try and be a bit polite to the first ascentonist. It is just damn right rude to take the piss and name a new problem 'Misguided Youth' with a comment of "font 6c+, so a Churston 8b". It appears that the problem has been deleted and so it should be. I downgraded a problem just down the road from here and the first ascentonist was perfectly fine with it and respected my opinion :-) Please have some respect for other climbers, it's a small world!
Beastly Squirrel - 05/Aug/12

You have been woefully misguided.
El3ctroFuzz - 04/Aug/12