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Churston CoveDevon, ENGLAND
Climbs 34 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE
ALOT OF THE ROCK IS LOOSE SO TAKE EXTRA CARE ON PROBLEMS. MAINLY ON THE HIGHER PARTS.
Mainly made up of Limestone but there is some sandstone and on some of the climbs there is abit of Flowstone. Little bouldering area, with some easy problems with big jugs, through to hard fingery, techical and powerful problems.
Approach boulder. On the stated approach path to the right as your walking down is a rather blank looking face. Loose rock possibilities and loose rock on the most featured (looks crumbly too) bit, but the safe holds to use are usually calked up.
Overhanging Face is quite obvious of where about it is, with its obvious overhanging blank face which is the first of the "free climbable" walls. There is some hard climbing on the wall. Watch out for the loose rock up high before pulling hard on them, not sure the exact position but I remember worrying on the first ascent. A couple of mats and spotters would be sensible.
Just past the overhang you will see another flat and slightly overhanging face which is Main face here there are some good problems with a V0 to a V7. On the top left is loose rock and top middle may have loose rock. Never had holds fall, but dont commit to pulling on the higher holds without checking them out first.
The next sector is Tidel wave, which has some great problems to the right there is a flat wall which has some crystels on this is Thats the Spirit (see images). To get to rest of the problems at Tidel wave you have to scramble around the sealine. When you get near a little freestanding boulder (that looks like a load of rocks have been stuck together), to the left of this is two faces that join at a corner and this is where you will find the remainder of the problems. The problems here are really good and good for Endurance training. Some of the problems are Tidel but can be reached most of the time, just be careful that you dont get cut off by the tide. But around there is some really, really good problems that are a must to tick.
Back to the main side of the area is Mini Quarry which is simply just a mini quarry, it is situated quite high but is still quite easy to get to. It is visable from the approach in, look up towards the top of the bank and you will be able go see two cut out sections which have rock in them (look like mini quarries) the one on the right is Mini quarry. There is a path that leads to it, follow the main path up and walk acrooss the top. Here is some decent problems some are good for warm-ups and some very, very finger and very technical like Panic Attack. Some of the holds are loose, helmet may be advisable.
There are some obvious big slabs. SOLO's!
Climbs at this crag
Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L and is signposted Churston cove. Park in this carpark and the follow the signs for Churston Cove on a 4 minute walk in.
Then the rocks are clear on the opposite side of the beach.