The amazing geology of the crag is apparent upon arrival. The large overhanging upper section is the cross section of an ancient river bed. The buttress is in two contrasting sections; the lower hard yellow sandstone, the jutting upper bunter pebble bed - awesome!
There is no bouldering here at present, but a keen eye and big brush might reveal some good problems and there are certainly some interesting looking craglets scattered in the vicinity.
The best routes are Ina's Chimney (S), Inaccessible (E5 6a), Atlas (E2 5c) and Ground Support (E1 5b) with a couple of highball-ish E5's right again on good sandstone.
Inaccessible must rank amongst one of the best E5's in the county and undoubtedly the best on this obscure rock type anywhere. The climbing is superb throughout, a real experience and a must-do-tick for anyone capable of this grade.
There have been no issues with access to this crag.
Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004)
|1||Ina's Chimney||S 4a **||7|
|2||Little Maia||E5 6a *||2|
|3||Ina Sharples||E5 6b ***|
|6||Thumbelina||E7 6c ***||16|
|7||Inaccessible||E5 6a ***||8|
|8||On Aggregate||E4 6c ***|
|9||Atlas||E2 5c **||10|
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