Millstone Quarry Mow Cop

Climbs 10 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 330m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
The biggest quarry at Mow Cop dominated by the Castle Crack Face

Access notes
Climbing here is not permitted by the National Trust.

Guidebooks
Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Arête and Slab ClimbS 4
2CrystineE2 5b  
3Castle CrackVS 4b *6
4Silent ScreamE3 6a  
5The ReachHS 4a 3
6Spiral RouteVS 4b 12
7JC Slab *V0- 4b 4
8Carbonel *VS va **2
9ExecutionerHS 1
10Alsager Route *VS 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer p_won

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went boulder up there 19th June 2010. Was told i wasn't allowed as people get hurt and NT is liable. so I duly de-shoed and walked down chatting with the wardens about how nice the place is. They then said that if i was a member of the BMC with reg card to back up insured liablity they do not have a problem climbing anywhere on mow cop. just inform them when and where. They did also say that The Old Man is totally off limits as the crack is being measured constantly as it grows wider all the time. Very unstable. Any mor edetails give me a message.
ungracefulathlete - 20/Jun/10
Previous post has page breaks removed! Email detail starts at "The last meeting" and ends at "guidebook notes state."---My personal comments start from "When I try to climb there again".
EZ - 08/Nov/09
I have had a response from the BMC as follows: The last meeting that I had with the Nat Trust was well before the 2004 guide and I met with their Officer from Styal Office. Millstone Quarry was not part of their jurisdiction or ownership and they did not know who owned it, although he did express the opinion that if no one claimed ownership then the N.T. might 'claim'it. However, even if this has happened it is no reason to prevent climbing as there were no objections to climbing per se raised at this meeting. All they asked for was that climbers did not create a nuisance to the owners of the bungalows on the north side of the quarry. The Reach HS 4a is not near these bungalows. Their restrictions at Mow are for two reasons: 1. Danger to the public walking underneath - Folly Cliff. 2. Unstable rock - The Old man. Other than that the N.T. Officer had no objection to climbing either at the Trig Point or at the back (south side) under the Folly as the guidebook notes state. When I try to climb there again I will do so sensitively by advising the Styal National Trust office of my intention, parking elsewhere than the NT car park, and with this email printed and a copy of the most recent guidebook in my hand so that I can advise the wardens when approached. For reference the response to me was from Guy Keating and the Local Access rep who handled the enquiry was Dave Bishop. Thanks to these and the BMC for their work regarding this access issue.
EZ - 08/Nov/09
I have just been asked to leave the Millstone Quarry area by the National Trust wardens (three of them). The regional access database was last updated in 2006 stating that the Millstone Area is not owned by the NT ( http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=751 ). I am currently waiting for response from the BMC to advise and will update here accordingly.
EZ - 17/Oct/09
Eh up mate, call in next time you're up here.
rcs - 16/Jul/08
Climbing is not allowed on The folly Cliff, Hawk’s Hole Quarry and the Old Man of Mow. Climbers are tolerated on Millstone Quarry but you will get questioned by the warden who seems to have the ability to appear like the shop keeper in Mr Ben, talk to him he’s not a bad chap, the main worry is the loose rock and the local kids trying to copy what you are doing
NIGBEE - 19/May/06
climbing is no longer allowed at mow cop
deeje - 24/Oct/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 17/Jan/2013
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