Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

First multi-pitch lead.... on Swanage jugs..... Wall Street HS 4b. © si cooke

Crag features

Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and mid-grade lines including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access easily to either end of the area by abseil and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station. The tops of many of the routes in this area are very loose but on the routes described here they are either solid due to quarrying or regular traffic.

Approach notes

Approach as for Dancing Ledge to the last stile before you drop down the huge slope to the quarry. Turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence.

Access Advice

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Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
new stake in place (09/08/2009)
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ambler Gambler
-
HVS **12
2Dead Red
-
E1 5b **3
3Stretch
-
VS 4b 4
4Cormorant Buttress WestS 4a **79
5Medium Spicy
-
HVS 5a 1
6Mirabilis
-
HVS 5a 1
7Cormorant Buttress EastS 4a 1
8Ace of Spades
-
E1 4c, 5b **2
9Flake CrackE1 5c 1
10Brass Monkey *
-
VS 4c *2
11Middle Buttress
-
HVS 7
12Sambapati *
-
VS 4c 1
13Squeez It Pleez It
-
HVS 5a,4b *2
14ExcaliburVS 4c 2
 Reforn Quarry 
16Jupiter *
-
VS 5a  
17Jupiter variation *
-
HVS 5b 1
18Tape and Ape *
-
E5 6b *2
19Black Jack
-
HVS 5a,4c *20
20Quality StreetHVS 4c ***255
21Wall StreetHS 4b ***317
22Wall Street CrashHVS 5a, 4c **9
23MinaretteE1 5b **4
24Captain Cat
-
HVS 5a *4
25OranS 4a *82
26Free Fall CafeE1 5b *4
 Lost To The Sea 
28 Easter EggVS 4c *5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999