Cormorant Ledge

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and mid-grade lines including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access easily to either end of the area by abseil and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station. The tops of many of the routes in this area are very loose but on the routes described here they are either solid due to quarrying or regular traffic.

Access notes
Approach as for Dancing Ledge to the last stile before you drop down the huge slope to the quarry. Turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Ambler GamblerHVS **10
2Dead RedE1 5b **3
3StretchVS 4b 2
4Cormorant Buttress WestS 4a ***64
5Ace of SpadesE1 4c, 5b **2
6Squeez It Pleez ItHVS 5a,4b *2
7ExcaliburVS 4c 2
8Easter EggVS 4c *3
9Black JackHVS 5a,4c *15
10Quality StreetHVS 4c ***163
11Wall StreetHS 4b **212
12Wall Street CrashHVS 5a, 4c **6
13OranS 4a *60
14Middle ButtressHVS 5
15Cormorant Buttress East *S 4a 1
16Flake Crack *E1 5c 1
17Brass Monkey *VS 4c *1
18Sambapati *VS 4c 1
19Tape and Ape *E5 6b *2
20Medium Spicy *HVS 5a 1
21Mirabilis *HVS 5a 1
22Minarette *E1 5b 1
23Jupiter *VS 5a  
24Jupiter variation *HVS 5b 1
25Captain Cat *HVS 5a 1
26Captain Cat/Oran finish *VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
new stake in place (09/08/2009)
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09