Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

First multi-pitch lead.... on Swanage jugs..... Wall Street HS 4b. © si cooke

Crag features

Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and mid-grade lines including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access easily to either end of the area by abseil and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station. The tops of many of the routes in this area are very loose but on the routes described here they are either solid due to quarrying or regular traffic.

Approach notes

Approach as for Dancing Ledge to the last stile before you drop down the huge slope to the quarry. Turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
new stake in place (09/08/2009)
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Ambler Gambler
HVS **10
2Dead Red
E1 5b **3
VS 4b 3
4Cormorant Buttress WestS 4a **75
5Ace of Spades
E1 4c, 5b **2
6Squeez It Pleez It
HVS 5a,4b *2
7ExcaliburVS 4c 2
8Easter EggVS 4c *5
9Black Jack
HVS 5a,4c *17
10Quality StreetHVS 4c ***181
11Wall StreetHS 4b ***248
12Wall Street CrashHVS 5a, 4c **9
13OranS 4a *68
14Middle Buttress
15Cormorant Buttress East *
S 4a 1
16Flake Crack *
E1 5c 1
17Brass Monkey *
VS 4c *2
18Sambapati *
VS 4c 1
19Tape and Ape *
E5 6b *2
20Medium Spicy *
HVS 5a 1
21Mirabilis *
HVS 5a 1
22Minarette *
E1 5b 1
23Jupiter *
VS 5a  
24Jupiter variation *
HVS 5b 1
25Captain Cat *
HVS 5a 3
26Captain Cat/Oran finish *
VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard