Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Jason Wood on a mono problem at Ingleby Incline. © scooott
Exposed to the wind and can get quite chilly, but gets any sun going and enjoys fantastic views. A superb place to climb, and the chances are you'll have the crag to yourselves (partly due to the 1 hour walk in!).
The 'classic of the crag' is Cosy Corner (VDiff) and it's worth the journey just for this one. Other fine routes include Greenhow Chimney (Diff), Crack and Groove (S), Rack and Pinion (HS), Top Gun (HVS), Pickpocket (E1), Primate Wardrobe Supervisor (E2) and Gym Junkies (E3).
Due to access problems in the past, many routes are quite dirty and could do with some cleaning, hopefully increased traffic will help.
Note that for the easier routes at least, the guidebook grades are very 'Northumbrian', and would be at least a grade harder in the Peak or even elsewhere in Yorkshire.
A crag which has suffered from access problems for many years, now finally resolved as the crag is on open access land so previous restrictions no longer apply.
Take the Battersby road out of Ingleby Greenhow, then the first turning right to Bank Foot. Just before the farm turn right onto the cinder track. Park immediately on the left. Walk or cycle 2km down the track to some cottages. Although the 'no vehicular access' sign referred to in the guidebook is no longer there at the start of the cinder track, there is no parking available near the cottages. There is a small 'layby' 1km down the track where it may be possible to park, depending on current forestry operations.
>From the cottages go through a gate, then left at a fork and up the steep incline, site of the old railway. The right hand end of the crag is above the gate at the top of the forest. To access the left end of the crag it is easier to walk along the top of the crag than the bottom, though this makes it tricky to tell where you are on a first visit.
The "crag" is a series of small buttresses on the edge of the escarpment. Moving between buttresses is best done on a feint path along the edge of the moor but from this it is not easy to identify routes. The hillside below is very steep in places. There is a good range of grades but protection and belays are sparce on some routes. There is much bouldering below the crags.
|fab crag- just so much to go at and such lovely rock.|
Franco Cookson - 11/Aug/12