Brean Down (Fort Crags)

Climbs 73 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Totally different from the landward crags at Brean. Hard, textured rock reminiscent of The Gower.

Excellent trad climbing in an atmospheric situation.

Approach notes
Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE TRENCH  
2Wheezers and DodgersVS 4c 1
3Zee Germans are comingE2 5c *1
4The Expendable Acoustic EmitterHVS 5a 1
 SOUTHERN SPUR  
6DionHS 4b 2
7The Sea PriestessS 4a *1
8FortuneVS 4c 1
9The ComebackHS 4a 1
 SHELTER CHIMNEY AREA  
11Shelter ChimneyVD 2
12Just Climb SomethingM 2
13Chimney SweepHD 1
14LozzagyrD 1
15Roadbike HeadcaseS 4a 2
16DaughterD 2
17Daddy RouteVD *3
 RED SLAB AREA  
19NomeHD 1
20Obvious CrackHS 4c 1
21Finger CrackVD 26
22Pining for PembrokeVD 2
23Romuth BeckoningE1 5a 2
24Curving CrackVD 20
25EavesdropVD 20
26One False MoveE5 6a 2
27BirthmarkE1 5b 11
28In the SoupE1 5b *8
29BackstairsS 9
30Gone FishingHVS 5a 10
31Well-honedHVS 4c *26
32Red Slab CrackVD 31
33Red Slab CentralHVS 4c 25
34Red Slab CornerS 40
35Red Wall Crack (Left)VS 4c 5
36Red Wall Crack (Right)VD 9
 BROKEN CLEFT  
38Dead Man's HandshakeE5 6a/b * 
39Genetic Love AffairVS 4b 2
40The Big ChillE1 5a 2
41Pint Handle CrackHVS 5a 3
42Save the Down from MankindE1 5b 2
43HoneycombE1 5c 9
44Me' shellE2 5c **6
45She MaleVS 4c **2
46ApparitionVS 4b *13
47True IdentityHVS 4c 1
 OCHRE STRIP  
49BlockedVS 4b 2
50OK CrackS 5
51DeceptionVS 4b 5
52Ochre GrooveVD 5
53BereavedE1 5b 5
54BequeathedE1 5c *5
55BeholdenE1 5b  
56Cynical of SuccessE3 5b  
57The Bones of GoramVS 4b *4
58Blind Man's ParadoxE1 6a 2
59Blind Man's Paradox IndirectHVS 5a *1
60RetardisHVS 4c 4
61TravestyE5 6a * 
62TheopolisE2 6a  
63Black ComedyE1 5b 5
64SatyreE3 6a *3
65Fun With PyroE2 5c 2
66Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling FreeE1 5b 4
67Needs MustVS 4c 2
68Bongo Workshop BashE2 5b  
69Ben BaddooE2 5b  
70Purge the Week AwayE2 5c  
71The Brean Bone ChamberE3 6a  
72PinnochioE2 5b  
73NosejobE3 5c  
 HOTACHES BUTTRESS  
75Before The DawnVS 4c *2
76Have-a-go HeroE4 5c *2
77HotachesE1 5b *5
78Creak MachineE2 6a *2
79Squeaky CleanE4 6a **2
80Lonely CornerVD 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12