Climbs 73
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

Big Waves, Loose Rock, Rock Samphire and Big Smile. The joy of Somerset sea cliffs! :) © Urgles

Crag features

Totally different from the landward crags at Brean. Hard, textured rock reminiscent of The Gower.

Excellent trad climbing in an atmospheric situation.

Approach notes

Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).

Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Trench 
2Wheezers and Dodgers
VS 4c 1
3Zee Germans are comingE2 5c *1
4The Expendable Acoustic Emitter
HVS 5a 1
 Southern Spur 
HS 4b 2
7The Sea Priestess
S 4a *1
VS 4c 1
9The Comeback
HS 4a 1
 Shelter Chimney AREA 
11Shelter ChimneyVD 2
12Just Climb SomethingM 2
13Chimney SweepHD 2
14LozzagyrD 1
15Roadbike HeadcaseS 4a 2
16DaughterD 2
17Daddy RouteVD *3
 Red Slab Area 
19NomeHD 1
20Obvious CrackHS 4c 1
21Finger CrackVD 27
22Pining for PembrokeVD 2
23Romuth BeckoningE1 5a 2
24Curving CrackVD 23
25EavesdropVD 24
26One False MoveE5 6a 2
27BirthmarkE1 5b 11
28In the SoupE1 5b *8
29BackstairsS 9
30Gone FishingHVS 5a 13
31Well-honedHVS 4c *31
32Red Slab CrackVD 36
33Red Slab CentralHVS 4c 31
34Red Slab CornerS 45
35Red Wall Crack (Left)VS 4c 7
36Red Wall Crack (Right)VD 9
 Broken cleft 
38Dead Man's HandshakeE5 6a/b * 
39Genetic Love AffairVS 4b 2
40The Big ChillE1 5a 2
41Pint Handle CrackHVS 5a 3
42Save the Down from MankindE1 5b 2
43HoneycombE1 5c 9
44Me' shellE2 5c **7
45She MaleVS 4c **2
VS 4b *14
47True Identity
HVS 4c 1
 ochre strip 
49BlockedVS 4b 2
50OK Crack
S 5
VS 4b 5
52Ochre Groove
VD 5
E1 5b 5
E1 5c *5
E1 5b  
56Cynical of Success
E3 5b  
57The Bones of Goram
VS 4b *4
58Blind Man's Paradox
E1 6a 2
59Blind Man's Paradox IndirectHVS 5a *1
HVS 4c 4
E5 6a * 
E2 6a  
63Black Comedy
E1 5b 5
E3 6a *3
65Fun With Pyro
E2 5c 2
66Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling Free
E1 5b 4
67Needs Must
VS 4c 2
68Bongo Workshop Bash
E2 5b  
69Ben Baddoo
E2 5b  
70Purge the Week Away
E2 5c  
71The Brean Bone Chamber
E3 6a  
E2 5b  
E3 5c  
 Hotaches Buttress 
75Before The Dawn
VS 4c *2
76Have-a-go Hero
E4 5c *2
E1 5b *6
78Creak Machine
E2 6a *2
79Squeaky Clean
E4 6a **2
80Lonely Corner
VD 1

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