Brean Down (Fort Crags)

Climbs 69 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Totally different from the landward crags at Brean. Hard, textured rock reminiscent of The Gower.

Excellent trad climbing in an atmospheric situation.

Access notes
Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 FORT AREA 
2DionVD
3FortuneHS 4c
4AwenHS 4b
5The Sea PriestessS 4a *
6The ComebackHS 4a
 SHELTER CHIMNEY AREA 
8Shelter ChimneyVD
9Just Climb SomethingM
10Chimney SweepHD
11LozzagyrD
12Roadbike HeadcaseS 4a
13DaughterD
14Daddy RouteVD *
 RED SLAB AREA 
16Obvious CrackHS 4c
17Finger CrackVD
18Pining for PembrokeVD
19Romuth BeckoningE1 5a
20Curving CrackVD
21EavesdropVD
22One False MoveE5 6a
23BirthmarkE1 5b
24In the SoupE1 5b *
25BackstairsS
26Gone FishingHVS 5a
27Well-honedHVS 4c *
28Red Slab CrackVD
29Red Slab CentralHVS 4c
30Red Slab CornerS
31Red Wall Crack (Left)VS 4c
32Red Wall Crack (Right)VD
 BROKEN CLEFT 
34Dead Man's HandshakeE5 6a/b *
35Genetic Love AffairVS 4b
36The Big ChillE1 5a
37Pint Handle CrackHVS 5a
38Save the Down from MankindE1 5b
39HoneycombE1 5c
40Me' shellE2 5c **
41She MaleVS 4c **
42ApparitionVS 4b *
43True IdentityHVS 4c
 OCHRE STRIP 
45BlockedVS 4b
46OK CrackS
47DeceptionVS 4b
48Ochre GrooveVD
49BereavedE1 5b
50BequeathedE1 5c *
51BeholdenE1 5b
52Cynical of SuccessE3 5b
53The Bones of GoramVS 4b *
54Blind Man's ParadoxE1 6a
55Blind Man's Paradox IndirectHVS 5a *
56RetardisHVS 4c
57TravestyE5 6a *
58TheopolisE2 6a
59Black ComedyE1 5b
60SatyreE3 6a *
61Fun With PyroE2 5c
62Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling FreeE1 5b
63Needs MustVS 4c
64Bongo Workshop BashE2 5b
65Ben BaddooE2 5b
66Purge the Week AwayE2 5c
67The Brean Bone ChamberE3 6a
68PinnochioE2 5b
69NosejobE3 5c
 HOTACHES BUTTRESS 
71Before The DawnVS 4c *
72Have-a-go HeroE4 5c *
73HotachesE1 5b *
74Creak MachineE2 6a *
75Squeaky CleanE4 6a **
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Pylon King

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 27/Jul/2014
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Cardiff, CARDIFF
Dedicated centre.
"2,000 square meters of climbing walls. Over 100 lead climbing lines. Dedicated bouldering area, including bouldering cave. Instruction and climbing activities for all ages and..."
bouldersuk.com