Brean Down (Fort Crags)

Climbs 70 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Totally different from the landward crags at Brean. Hard, textured rock reminiscent of The Gower.

Excellent trad climbing in an atmospheric situation.

Access notes
Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2DionVD 1
3FortuneHS 4c 1
4AwenHS 4b 1
5The Sea PriestessS 4a *1
6The ComebackHS 4a 1
8Shelter ChimneyVD 2
9Just Climb SomethingM 2
10Chimney SweepHD 1
11LozzagyrD 1
12Roadbike HeadcaseS 4a 2
13DaughterD 2
14Daddy RouteVD *3
16Obvious CrackHS 4c 1
17Finger CrackVD 25
18Pining for PembrokeVD 2
19Romuth BeckoningE1 5a 2
20Curving CrackVD 19
21EavesdropVD 20
22One False MoveE5 6a 2
23BirthmarkE1 5b 11
24In the SoupE1 5b *7
25BackstairsS 9
26Gone FishingHVS 5a 9
27Well-honedHVS 4c *23
28Red Slab CrackVD 30
29Red Slab CentralHVS 4c 23
30Red Slab CornerS 38
31Red Wall Crack (Left)VS 4c 5
32Red Wall Crack (Right)VD 9
34Dead Man's HandshakeE5 6a/b * 
35Genetic Love AffairVS 4b 2
36The Big ChillE1 5a 2
37Pint Handle CrackHVS 5a 3
38Save the Down from MankindE1 5b 2
39HoneycombE1 5c 8
40Me' shellE2 5c **6
41She MaleVS 4c **2
42ApparitionVS 4b *13
43True IdentityHVS 4c 1
45BlockedVS 4b 2
46OK CrackS 5
47DeceptionVS 4b 5
48Ochre GrooveVD 5
49BereavedE1 5b 5
50BequeathedE1 5c *5
51BeholdenE1 5b  
52Cynical of SuccessE3 5b  
53The Bones of GoramVS 4b *4
54Blind Man's ParadoxE1 6a 2
55Blind Man's Paradox IndirectHVS 5a *1
56RetardisHVS 4c 4
57TravestyE5 6a * 
58TheopolisE2 6a  
59Black ComedyE1 5b 5
60SatyreE3 6a *3
61Fun With PyroE2 5c 2
62Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling FreeE1 5b 4
63Needs MustVS 4c 2
64Bongo Workshop BashE2 5b  
65Ben BaddooE2 5b  
66Purge the Week AwayE2 5c  
67The Brean Bone ChamberE3 6a  
68PinnochioE2 5b  
69NosejobE3 5c  
71Before The DawnVS 4c *2
72Have-a-go HeroE4 5c *2
73HotachesE1 5b *5
74Creak MachineE2 6a *2
75Squeaky CleanE4 6a **2
76Nome HD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Pylon King Against Capit@lism

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12