Brean Down (Fort Crags) Somerset, ENGLAND
Climbs 69 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces S
Totally different from the landward crags at Brean. Hard, textured rock reminiscent of The Gower.
Excellent trad climbing in an atmospheric situation.
Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.
Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992)
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Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.|
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12