Mullach Mor

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Topo's and info

http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Mullach_Mor

A long low limestone crag located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the top of Mullach Mor as you approach from the south. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.

The crag is broken into two areas namely Father Tedís Crag and the French Quarter. Father Tedís crag stretches from the west to the middle east of the south facing cliffs, while the French Quarter starts at the western corner of FT Crag and runs North. The crag looks onto Father Tedís house under the cliffs to the west (Slievenaglasa).

The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of syles although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10 metres or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilly's chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas , in particular at Dougal's and Doyle's butress (Care Now!)

There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.

To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mulach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).

To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladee drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretive centre.

Guidebooks
Climbs in the Burren and Aran Islands (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
27FECKE3 6a *
28GRIFFINS ARETEVS 5a
29SPIDERBABYHS 4b
30PONY TAIL EXPRESSS 4b
31RAM'S HEADHVS 5a
32CRILLEY'S CHIMNEYD
33BEACH PARTYHS 4c
34SPICY WEDGESE3 5c
35CONFEDERACYVS 5a *
36KIWI STEWHVS 5a
37CHALK OR CHEESEHVS 5a
38FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLES 4a
39MY LOVELY HORSES 4a
40MY LOVELY HORSE DIRECT STARTVS 4c
41YOUNG FELLAHS 4b
42TOO BIG FOR SMURFSHVS 5b
43BLOOD RIGHTVS 4c
44FUNNY MENHS 4b
45IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIESTHS 4b
46SOGGY SMURFHS 4b
47AN ECUMENICAL MATTERS 4a
48CITIZENS 4a
49DANCING PRIESTS 4a
50SMURF SYMPHONYHS 4c
51HEIDIM
52CASPERS 4a
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These details were last updated on 12/May/2014
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