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View larger map – Grid Ref R 326500
Mullach MorCo. Clare, IRELAND
Climbs 52 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces SW
A long low limestone crag located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the top of Mullach Mor as you approach from the south. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.
The crag is broken into two areas namely Father Tedís Crag and the French Quarter. Father Tedís crag stretches from the west to the middle east of the south facing cliffs, while the French Quarter starts at the western corner of FT Crag and runs North. The crag looks onto Father Tedís house under the cliffs to the west (Slievenaglasa).
The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of syles although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10 metres or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilly's chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas , in particular at Dougal's and Doyle's butress (Care Now!)
There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.
To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mulach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).
To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladee drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretive centre.
Climbs at this crag
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